Filament Factory A 3D Printer Filament Extruder

So how much money do I save when making my own filament ?

How long does it take to produce 1 kg of filament you may ask ??

Oh yeah what about the build cost ?

5. Barrel and Auger bit preparation

8. Band heater and temperatur probe (K-type thermocouple)

10.3 Solid State Relay & Band heater

10.6 Extrusion settings and setting up the PID

3D printers are cool and they finally start to drop in price. Kickstarter campaigns like the one from QB-UP or M3D are popping up and they are finally affordable. And with affordable I mean affordable like 200 $ and not affordable like 2.199$ affordable. However, once you are a proud owner of a 3D printer you will soon realize that your wallet is far from being let alone. No ! You need plastic filament of course to print those super awesome coat hooks and wheel chocks. Since the price for these filaments tend to top the actual material costs, printing before mentioned life savers is kind of expensive and could become a problem to the development of the ever growing 3D printer community.

BUT FEAR NO MORE !!Some clever gents came along Hugh Lyman with his Lyman Extruder may be mentioned here or the guys over at and saved the day ! YAY. And there was much rejoicing ! They have built plastic extruders everyone can build or buy at a decent price. However if you are a fellow m user the first thing that should come to your mind is I can build this by myselfand cheaper. Building at lower costs is the nature of DIY after all.

And much more fun than putting together a premade kit, of course.

Special greetings go out to Xabbax and his plain simple but super awesome Low Cost Filament Extruder !

Depending on the pellets you get you can make your filament starting at 1$/kg.

Using the build I describe hereroughly 1 hour. (for 1,75mm filament using ABS/PC pellets).

So, lets say on a Saturday in your next workshop session you start at 10 AM and batten down the hatches at 5 PM you could make 4-5 kg of filament, saving between 125-150 $ leaving you with lots of filament for hundreds of thousands of eggcups and phone cases and other useless needful things.

Depending on shipping and local prices, I would guess around 130-150$.

Except for the electronics everything listed here can be bought at your local hardware store.

1x Wiper Motor (Ebay EU 15€) / 5€ from the junkyard

1x Auger bit(diameter = 16mm ; length = 460mm)

1x PID Temperatur Controller DC 12V version (Ebay)

1x SSR-25DA Solid State Relay 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC / 25A (Ebay)

1x K-type thermocouple (Ebay like this one; does not need to be that shop 🙂 just an example)

!!! Sometimes the PID is bundled with an SSR and an K-Type Thermocouple !!!

1x Heating band (200 Watt 25mmx30mm) (Ebay)

1x Fitting 3/4 US Inch UNC 1/2 German Inch 18cm long

1x Water tap extension 3/4 UNC threads 1/2 German Inch 50mm long, 27mm diameter (one core thread and one exterior thread)

1x Faucet-mounted filter 1/2 diameter

1x Axial ball thrust bearing (Ebay) Fitting exactly onto the auger bits shaft.

3x Rocker (previously rocket) switches

2x sockets (1 that fits on the auger bit and 1 that fits on the nuts of the motor shaft)

Take the wooden board and cut away two pieces each 15cm in length (~6). They will serve as a mount for the motor and for the barrel.

Mount the wiper motor to the motor mount and place it somewhere at the end of the base plate. See the technical drawing for an estimation.

Use the steel angles to attach it to the base plate.

The motor just has a threaded shaft. For the coupling to fit onto the motor I took a hex-nut with 13mm outer diameter and put it on the shaft. When the shaft rotates and the coupling is attached, the nut would untwist. To fix this I drilled a hole in-between the attached nut and the motor shaft and put in a 2mm steel bolt. This prevents the nut from opening. See the last picture above.

Drill two holes into the other piece of wood so the flanges can be attached left and right of the board. Drill another 1/2 hole for the auger bit.

Both mounting boards need their center opening to be aligned to each other so the auger / coupling / shaft-axis can rotate freely.

Fasten the flanges with two pieces of the 10mm threaded rod. The rods must be left long enough so they can be screwed to the auger kickback protection. 10 cm is good enough. They can be cut to size later on.

When the auger bit turns and hauls the pellets a lot of pressure builds up. In the worst case this could damage the worm drive inside the wiper motor. To counter that problem, we need a kickback protection. This is simply done by a sturdy steel angle and an axial ball thrust bearing.These ball bearing withstand alot of force applied to them.

It works like that: The auger pushed back due to its backward turning attitude. Because of its taper the augers shaft pushes against the axial ballthrust bearing which itself pushes against the steel angle. The coupling between the auger and the motor should always have a little clearance. So that no force is applied to the motors shaft.

Now place the steel angle with the inserted rods at a distance to the barrel mount so that the augers shaft sticks out for about 3-4cm (~1.5-2).

The pictures should explain it as well. Moreover I have made a short video that should illustrate it as well. The dimensions of the parts might differ from the ones you have access to. So exact measurement might not help you very much, but the pictures should give you an idea how it should be put together.

Smooth out the ends and the seams of the pipe so the auger bit can rotate freely.

Before cutting an opening into the pipe screw it tight onto the flange and mark the upper area and remove the barrel again.

Take your multitool and cut out the marked area at the end of the pipe where the pellets should fall in. Wind some PTFE tape around that end of the pipe. This should prevent the pipe from turning with the augers movement. Remember the motor is very powerful and if there is some friction between the auger and the pellets, the pipe easily turns another 4-5 mm even if it was fastened with a monkey wrench.

The threads on the flange and fittings are not made for perfect 90 angles. So the fitting/barrel might stand in an oblique angle. To fix this take some washers and place them under the flang where necessary.

Take a square piece of wood and drill a hole lengthways for the pipe to run through. Now drill another hole orthogonal to the pipe channel so that a bottle can fit tightly. Now just cut the block in half for easy dis/-assembly.

The auger might be too long so you need to cut off its tip with an angle grinder.

The auger bit should reach up to the heater. See the pictures.

Deburing the fitting for the auger to move freely

Pellet reservoir holder for a soda bottle

Pellet reservoir assembled with fitting and auger

SparkssssssssssZZZZZ. Auger bit adjustment tool

The auger is cut approx. in the middle of the heater attachment

Counterbalance is as essential in DIY as duct tape. And draw by eye

Take a 5cm (2 inch) piece of a square steel that fits into the ends of the sockets (about 12mm edge length).

Put the coupling on the auger bit and attach the motor to the motor mount.

The coupling should now fit nicely in-between. Alternatively you could use a spark plug socket instead of the two sockets. But therefore the distance between the motor-mount and the auger/barrel-mount needs adjustment.

I went with the above mentioned method because I did not have spark plug socket at hand but I will try this with the next build.

Auger-motor are connected via 2 hex nuts and a 10mm sqaure steel

Auger-motor coupling assembled on the extruder

Auger-motor are connected via 2 hex nuts and a 10mm sqaure steel

Depending on the material you process the diameter of the hole in the nozzle will vary and finding the right dimension is a process of trial and error. For ABS/PC blend pellets with a melting point between 240-280C a 1.5mm hole perfomed well from my experience.

Take the faucet-mounted filter and cut it into a 1/2 diameter if needed. This will act as a breaker plate. What this breaker plates does is mix the molten plastic and retains dirty (which should not be there of course) and eventually small bubbles that could occur in the melting process. This helps smoothing the plastic pushing through the nozzle.

Be sure there are no chippings or strands ! You dont want to ruin your printers nozzle !

Take a washer, place it inside the end cap and put the DIY breaker plate on top.

Drill a 2mm hole near the front of the water tap extender for the thermocouple to fit in.

Strip the thermocouple wire to length. It should just be as long as needed.

Push the band heater on the tap extender. It should sit around the end of the extender.

Next take some PTFE tape and wind it around the thread of the tap extender. This prevents the molten plastic from squeezing through the thread.

Fix the thermocouple with some heat resistant tape. Then put on the nozzle from the previous step. Next, take a 10cm long piece of aluminium tubing with a diameter of around 1cm and place it in front of the nozzle using some rigid wire. This gives the filament a nice curl when cooling.

Now wrap the insulation around the heater so that the nozzle is covered as well.

Teflon tape wrapped around for a tight fitting.

K-Type Thermocouple temperature probe

Assembled nozzle head. Some Kapton tape to hold the temperature probe in place

The front of the nozzle and the motor needs some cooling.

The filament is still very hot and soft when it exits the nozzle. To prevent it from stretching too much from the affecting g-forces when falling down, cooling is very important. The more you cool the better you can control the diameter of the filament later on.

Although the motor builds up some heat and the fan helps to keep it cool.

Now that most of the mechanical parts are set and done it is time for installing the electronics.

But before, take a piece of wood for the front enclosure and arrange the 3 rocket switches, the PID controller and the motor controllers potentiometer and fix them with some hot glue.

Connect the power cord via a rocker/t switch to the power supply (Ports L, N and Ground).

Connect the PID temperature controller via rocker switches to the power supply.

Connect the 12V ports of Solid State Relay to the PID (Port 6 and 8)

Connect port 1 of the SSR to the 220V (EU) /120V (US) port (Port L) of the power supply.

Connect port 2 of the SSR tooneof the band heater ports.

The other free port of the band heater is connected to the N port of the power supply.

The band heater is a 220V part but the PID only runs on 12V. Therefore the SSR connects the 12V PID with the 220V heater. The PID powers the SSR on and off if needed. When it is on then 220V are connected to the band heater and it gets warm. If the relay is off, the band heaters isnt connected to 220V and ergo is powered down. The idea is to control a high power device (Heater) with a low power device (PID).

Connect the motor controller via a rocker switch to the power supply. Then connect the motor to the motor controller. Use the pinout for the 2nd speed setting of the motor. The pinouts differ from model to model and you first have to find out which pins are for which speed setting.

The two fans are connected to the same ports as the motor is to the motor controller.

I am not sure if I am allowed to post the wiring diagrams for license reasons so I will link to the respective websites.

2)Filabot Wee wiring diagram (scroll down)

3) Here is a link to theSestos PIDI used.

Different materials need different extrusion settings.

For pure ABS a temperature of 190C is about right.

PLA requires less heat and ABS/PC blend needs higher temperatures like 260-270C.

The Sestos PID is able to autotune to the desired temperature.

To enable the autotune function press SET for 3 seconds.

You will now see HIAL on the display. Now use the DOWN button until you see Ctrl and adjust it to 2. This is the number for the autotune function. Press SET again until you see the temperature readout again. Just after all the EP1-8 options. Set the desired temperature using the up and down buttons and wait until the display stops flashing (~10-15 minutes).

Activate the motor and let the extruding begin. You have to play around with the speed of the motor.

From my experience setting the potentiometer to half speed @ 270C for ABS/PC performed very well.

The very first extruded filament. No breaker plate; No drying. = Blebbing

First test run. Pretty fast. 4.5m/s with 17MFR Pellets

Extruded Filament with bubbles cause of missing breaker plate

Extruded Filament with gutters caused by some sliver on the nozzle

Extruded Filament with gutters caused by some sliver on the nozzle

Extruded too hot, too fast. Result = The Blob.

Extruded too hot, too fast. Result = The Blob.

Pellet reservoir attached to the wooden mount.

An aluminium pipe bends the still boiling hot filament and gives it a nice turn.

Perfect Filament. No bubbles, no blobing.

Filament Factory A 3D Printer Filament Extruder

Pingback:Filament extruder rip off on eBay Capotexl

Thank you for this wonderful tutorial. I am about to build a extruder myself. I would like to know the specs for the Axial ball thrust bearing. Thank you!

i am new in the 3d printing and i really liked you project and i orderd most of the materials , but i have nots,, i dont find them on eBay ,i just want to know what they look like,

i attached your list which show the orange color for the balance and the yellow for the ordered ones.

You can have a look at the same tutorial here:

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Big Impresa designed byIografica Themes.

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FLD-45 3D printing filament extruder machine

Zhangjiagang Friend Machinery Co., Ltd.

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FLD-45 3D printing filament extruder machine

1 Set/Sets professional price range for different machine parts

5 Set/Sets per Month some machine parts in stock

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ABS/PLA/PEEK/PC/HIPS/PVA/TPU/TPE/PA

wooden case and film covered , container for shipping

FLD-45 3D printing filament extruder machine

3D printing is a revolutionary technology since last two years and became more and more popular for all kinds of industries. With the rise of 3D printing technology ,our company developed the 3d printing filament production line and keep . we have sold the 3d printer plastic filament extruding machine with high level exported standard to a lot of developed countries like France,UK,USA,Russia and so on, alsoone way solution of plastic filament making ( from raw material to final filament after packing )

Our machines are very elcomed because of its multi-advantages:

1 Big capacity compared with other suppliers who use the same model.

2 Lowest tolerance: +/- 0.03 mm. even +/- 0.02 mm.

3 Both 1.75 and 2.85mm filament diameter

4 It can process multi-materials like PLA/ABS/PA/TPU/TPE/HIPS , or PEEK/PEI/PETG/PVA/PC/PPS/PCL

5 Easy operation: SIEMENS PLC full-auto controling system or switch control

6 Stable quality , we have not received any passive talks from our customers

7 Oversea service, installation, staff trainning and technical support.

Because ofPVAPEEK/PEI/PVA/PC/Material , air cooling will be adopted in filament making .

Note: if your country air temperature is over 30 ,we suggest using water chiller

professional 3D printing filament production line manufacturer for years .

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3d printing filament extruder machine

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Filastruder Kit

Undrilled Nozzle / Without Printed Hopper

1.75mm Nozzle / Without Printed Hopper

3.0mm Nozzle / Without Printed Hopper

Undrilled Nozzle / With Printed Hopper

1.75mm Nozzle / With Printed Hopper

Free domestic shipping, $60 internationally.

Includes 1lb of ABS plastic for free!

Are you frustrated with the high cost of filament for your 3D printer? Do you desire the ability to produce filament on demand, as it is needed, in the color and size appropriate for your 3D project?

The Filastruder filament extruder meets these needs and more, because it is a filament-making machine. The reason for starting this project is simple – raw plastic pellets are cheap costing only a few dollars per kg, while filament for 3D printers is much more expensive – $30/kg and more.

Aluminum Alloy Chassis- Gone are the days of wooden Filastruders! The backbone of a Filastruder filament extruder is now made out of CNCed 6061 alloy, improving both ease of assembly and durability.

Upgraded motor- (Model: GF45) This motor is roughly 200% more powerful than the v1.0-1.1 motor. It is 100% more powerful than the v1.2-1.5 series, and 50% more powerful than the v1.6 series. It is also a different style of motor, with better quality internals and easily replaceable brushes.

Advanced motor control- The voltage (speed) and current (torque) can now be controlled via a closed loop PWM controller. This controller also displays the input voltage, motor voltage, motor current, and motor power (load). For example, as the melt filter nozzle starts to become clogged, the motor current increases, which is displayed on the LCD. Additionally when trying new polymers, you can start the speed out slow and watch the current, changing temperature as you dial in the best parameters for that particular plastic.

Lasercut enclosure with cooling fan- All Filastruder 2.0 filament extruder kits now come with a laser cut enclosure. This enclosure is not structural, just cosmetic, meaning it can be modified by the end user if desired without compromising strength. The enclosure also has active cooling via a 60mm fan for the PID controller and motor.

Upgraded hopper- The original Filastruder Hopper was remixed into a 2-part design byimageit, who added threads as well for a standard soda bottle to be threaded in. This part is used with permission by the author, and I added some small tweaks to wall thickness to make it a bit stronger.

Upgraded, fully insulated barrel- The cutout to the barrel has been reshaped to improve barrel torsional strength while still maintaining smooth pellet feeding, resulting in a reduced tendency for the barrel to be damaged by overload. The barrel is now fully insulated to improve throughput and polymer mixing.

Melt filter nozzle- This was originally an option on Filastruder filament extruder Kits, not the included in the kit. Demand is now such that it can be included by default without significantly increasing price, which is great! The melt filter nozzle prevents any particles larger than 200 um from passing through into the filament. As a result, filament produced through a melt filter nozzle is free of any dirt or debris that would otherwise clog a 3D printers hotend.

Redesigned filament guide- In the spirit of no more wooden chassis, the filament guide was redesigned. It now uses a low friction PTFE guide in place of the previous copper guide. The guide bracket is laser cut and attaches to the barrel. It can be slid backwards and forwards to adjust the position relative to the nozzle.

Simpler assembly:Another thing to be excited about is simpler assembly. With Filastruder 2.0 filament extruder, the only tools necessary are:

Previously things like a pipe wrench, a drill, and a set of files were needed. No more! We deburr the barrel and tighten it into the flange for you, a step that caused some folks difficulty with v1.x kits. These changes have been largely due to feedback from users ranging from the weekend hobbyist to Fortune 500 companies, and I am grateful for their suggestions. PLA requires a little more care. The Filastruder extrudes it fine, but you have to make sure to completely dry the polymer before extruding. PLA also needs a lot of cooling, and ideallya winder like this one. Our users report +/-0.03mm tolerances with only moderate drying.Heres one users experience with both ABS and PLA.

After setting the desired temperature for extrusion and allowing time to warm up, fill the hopper with pellets and colorant of your choice, and turn on the gearmotor. Plastic will begin extruding from the Filastruder filament extruder, forming a pile on the floor to be spooled up later. The resulting filament can be wound onto a spool quickly and easily using a normal hand drill, or through aFilawinder.

As seen above, the Filastruder comes with one of three types of nozzles: undrilled (you can drill this to the size you prefer), drilled for 1.75mm, and drilled for 3.0mm. You can order more nozzles from the Spare Parts section above. Note that for use with printers having a nozzle size 0.5mm or smaller, it is recommended that a melt filter nozzle is used with the Filastruder to remove any dust/debris from the polymer.

What about ABS/PLA/HDPE/LDPE/TPE/Nylon/other crazy polymers?

ABS works really well in the Filastruder filament extruder. Generally +/-0.02mm tolerances are no problem with a winder, or +/-0.05mm without. The majority of people seem to use 1.75mm filament, so the tolerances reported are typically for that size.

Links to user-reported filament tolerances:

ABS: +/-0.02mmin some cases usersreport +/-0.01mm(another case of +/-0.01)

Other polymers successful extruded by our users (via email, so not all are linkable):

Seeour forumfor more information on these polymers.

To our knowledge, other polymers have not been tested. No reason they shouldnt work, though. Some polymers release toxic fumes at their extrusion temperatures, so be sure to read the MSDS for any polymer you try! Do not use PVC or other chlorine-based polymers!

Theres a few hurdles in recycling printed plastic. They are as follows:

Shredding/cutting the prints into pellets. The Filastruder filament extruder needs chunks of plastic that are no larger than 5mm on any side.

Contaminants. Any dirt or dust you get on your print, ends up in your filament. Same for whatever method you use to cut/shred your prints – any metal debris you get in the shredded plastic ends up in filament.

Heat history. The more you heat cycle a polymer, the weaker it gets as each heat cycle breaks the polymer chains. You will want to mix in virgin material to maintain strength.

As far as contaminants, this should be a non-issue if you wash and dry the plastic, and use the melt filter we provide on the site. The other two issues are left up to the user. There are some hobbyist shredders beginning to be made, but we have no experience with them.

Typical Extrusion Rate:5-8 hours per kilogram (2.2lbs) (10-36in/min, depending on diameter, material, and temperature)

Extrusion Temperature:Room temperature to 260C. Limited by heater power for safety, to prevent thermal decomposition of polymers. Heater is rated for higher temperatures, details upon request.

Power:110-240VAC, 50/60Hz, 60 watts peak, 50 watts average (electrical cost: 10 cents per kg extruded)

Basic hand tools: screwdriver, pliers, wire cutters/strippers/crimpers, allen keys

Everything else is provided – down to each washer and zip-tie.

The Filastruder filament extruder was first beta tested by 16 users. They loved it, so we launched on Kickstarter where we were joined by 875 backers. (thanks again, guys!) We fulfilled all of the Kickstarter kits, and move on to online sales, taking orders and saving you money! Heres a short version of the Kickstarter video:

The Filastruder filament extruder takes 2-3 hours to assemble. At-home polymer extrusion is certainly in its infancy; while the Filastruder has been tested by thousands of users and run for hundreds of thousands of hours, there is a learning curve involved that is similar to 3D Printing. Be sure to read the cautions and warnings in the assembly instructions before use. The Filastruder is targeted to makers and tinkerers, the types of people that have used basic hand tools and have performed electromechanical wiring/assembly before. However, there is a very active community on our forum, located here:

The creator of the Filastruder filament extruder (elmoret), is active on the forums and will try to address any issues you may have.

Also, be sure to check out our testimonials for real results from real people!

Since this product is a kit, we cannot accept returns

and a warranty is not possible, since parts can be damaged by incorrect assembly

. If a part of the kit is missing or damaged on delivery, contact us and we would be happy to send you a new one.

Subscribe to our newsletter and always be the first to hear about what is happening.

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Fused filament fabrication

) is a3D printingprocess that uses a continuous filament of athermoplasticmaterial. This is fed from a large coil, through a moving, heated. Molten material is forced out of the print heads nozzle and is deposited on the growing workpiece. The head is moved, under computer control, to define the printed shape. Usually the head moves in layers, moving in two dimensions to deposit one horizontal plane at a time, before moving slightly upwards to begin a new slice. The speed of the extruder head may also be controlled, to stop and start deposition and form an interrupted plane without stringing or dribbling between sections.was coined by the members of theRepRapproject to give a phrase that would be legally unconstrained in its use, given patents covering

Fused filament printing is now the most popular process (by number of machines) for hobbyist-grade 3D printing. As other techniques, such a photopolymerisation and powder sintering, may offer better results at greater cost, they still dominate commercial printing.

The3D printer heador3D printer extruderis a part in material extrusion-type printing responsible for raw material melting and forming it into a continuous profile. A wide variety of materials are extruded, including thermoplastics such asacrylonitrile butadiene styrene(ABS),polylactic acid(PLA),high-impact polystyrene(HIPS),thermoplastic polyurethane(TPU),aliphatic polyamides(nylon),[1]and recently alsoPEEK.[2]Paste-like materials such as ceramics and chocolate can be extruded using the fused filament process and a paste extruder.[3]

Additive manufacturing(AM), also referred to as 3D printing involves manufacturing a part by depositing material layer by layer. There is a wide array of different AM technologies that can make a part layer by layer including material extrusion, binder jetting, material jetting and directed energy deposition.[4]

These process have varied types of extruders and extrude different materials to achieve the final product using layer by layer addition of material approach. The3D Printer Liquefieris the component predominantly used in Material extrusion type printing.

Extrusionin 3-D printing using material extrusion involves a cold end and a hot end.

Thecold endis part of an extruder system that pulls and feed the material from thespool, and pushes it towards the hot end. The cold end is mostly gear- or roller-based supplying torque to the material and controlling the feed rate by means of astepper motor. By this means the process rate is controlled.

Thehot endis the active part which also hosts the liquefier of the 3D printer that melts the filament. It allows themolten plasticto exit from the smallnozzleto form a thin and tacky bead of plastic that will adhere to the material it is laid on. the hot end consists of a heating chamber and a nozzle. The hole in the tip (nozzle) has a diameter of between 0.3mm and 1.0mm. Different types of nozzles and heating methods are used depending upon the material to be printed.[5]

Some type of 3-D printing machines can have a different type of extrusion system which may not have a heating chamber- the heat is supplied from another source, e.g. alaser.

The ways extruders are mounted on the rest of the machine have evolved over time into informal mounting standards. These informal standards include:[5]

Such factor standards allows new extruder designs to be tested on existing printer frames, and new printer frame designs to use existing extruders.

In Fused Deposition Modeling a filament

of plastic material is fed through a heated moving head

that melts and extrudes it depositing it, layer after layer, in the desired shape

lowers after each layer is deposited. For this kind of 3D printing technology additional vertical support structures

are needed to sustain overhanging parts

Timelapsevideo of ahyperboloidobject (designed byGeorge W. Hart) made ofPLAusing aRepRapPrusa Mendel 3D printer for molten polymer deposition.

Fused deposition modeling(FDM) is anadditive manufacturing(AM) technology commonly used for modeling, prototyping, and production applications as trademarked byStratasysInc.[6][7]. It is one of the techniques used for3D printing. FDM works on an additive principle by laying down material in layers; a plastic filament or metal wire is unwound from a coil and supplies material to produce a part. Thus, FDM is also known as a solid-based AM technology.[8]

Fused deposition modeling (FDM) was developed byS. Scott Crumpin the late 1980s and was commercialized in 1990 byStratasys.[9][10]With the expiration of the patentUS 5121329 Aon this technology there is now a large open-source development community (calledRepRap), as well as commercial andDIYvariants, which utilize this type of 3D printer. This has led to two orders of magnitude price drop since this technologys creation.[11]

FDM begins with a software process which processes anSTL file (STereoLithography file format), mathematically slicing and orienting the model for the build process. If required, support structures may be generated.[12]The machine may dispense multiple materials to achieve different goals:

1. One may use one material to build up the model.

2. Use another as a soluble support structure.[13]

3. One could use multiple colors of the same type of thermoplastic on the same model.

The model or part is produced byextrudingsmall flattened strings of molten material to form layers as the material hardens immediately after extrusion from the nozzle.

A plastic filament is unwound from a coil and supplies material to anextrusion nozzlewhich can turn the flow on and off. There is typically an accurately controlled drive that pushes the filament into the nozzle.

The nozzle is heated to melt the material. The thermoplastics are heated well past theirglass transitiontemperature and are then deposited by an extrusion head.

The nozzle can be moved in both horizontal and vertical directions by a numerically controlled mechanism. The nozzle follows a tool-path controlled by acomputer-aided manufacturing(CAM) software package, and the part is built from the bottom up, one layer at a time.Stepper motorsorservo motorsare typically employed to move the extrusion head. The mechanism used is often an X-Y-Z rectilinear design, although other mechanical designs such asdeltabothave been employed.

Although as a printing technology FDM is very flexible, and it is capable of dealing with small overhangs by the support from lower layers, FDM generally has some restrictions on the slope of the overhang, and cannot produce unsupportedstalactites.

Myriad materials are available, such asAcrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene(ABS),Polylactic acid(PLA),Polycarbonate(PC),Polyamide(PA),Polystyrene(PS),ligninrubber, among many others, with different trade-offs between strength and temperature properties. In addition, even the color of a giventhermoplasticmaterial may affect the strength of the printed object.[14]Recently a German company demonstrated for the first time the technical possibility of processing granularPEEKinto filament form and 3D printing parts from the filament material using FDM-technology.[2]

During FDM, the hot molten polymer is exposed to air. Operating the FDM process within aninert gasatmosphere such asnitrogenorargoncan significantly increase the layer adhesion and leads to improved mechanical properties of the 3D printed objects.[15]An inert gas is routinely used to prevent oxidation duringselective laser sintering.

Flow geometry of the extruder, heating method and the melt flow behavior of a non-Newtonian fluid are of main consideration in the part.

A plastic filament is supplied from a reel, either commercially available or home made, and fed into a heated liquefier where it is melted. This melt is then extruded by a nozzle while the incoming filament, still in solid phase, acts as a plunger.

The nozzle is mounted to a mechanical stage, which can be moved in thexyplane. As the nozzle is moved over the table in a prescribed geometry, it deposits a thin bead of extruded plastic, called a road which solidifies quickly upon contact with substrate and/or roads deposited earlier.[16]

Solid layers are generated by following a rasterizing motion where the roads are deposited side by side within an enveloping domain boundary.

Once a layer is completed, the platform is lowered in thez directionin order to start the next layer. This process continues until the fabrication of the object is completed.

For Successful bonding of the roads in the process control of the thermal environment is necessary. Therefore, the system is kept inside a chamber, maintained at a temperature just below the melting point of the material being deposited.

During extrusion thethermoplastic filamentis introduced by mechanical pressure from rollers, into the liquefier, where it melts and is then extruded. The rollers are the only drive mechanism in the material delivery system, therefore filament is under tensile stress upstream to the roller and under compression at the downstream side acting as a plunger. Therefore, compressive stress is the driving force behind the extrusion process.

The force required to extrude the melt must be sufficient to overcome the pressure drop across the system, which strictly depends on the viscous properties of the melted material and the flow geometry of the liquefier and nozzle. The melted material is subjected to shear deformation during the flow.Shear thinningbehavior is observed in most of the materials used in this type of 3-D printing. This is modeled using power law for generalized Newtonian fluids.

The temperature is regulated by heat input from electrical coil heaters. The system continuously adjusts the power supplied to the coils according to the temperature difference between the desired value and the value detected by the thermocouple, forming aNegative Feedbackloop. This is similar to Heat Flow rate in Cylindrical Pipe.

FDM, a prominent form ofrapid prototyping, is used for prototyping and rapid manufacturing. Rapid prototyping facilitates iterative testing, and for very short runs, rapid manufacturing can be a relatively inexpensive alternative.[17]

FDM uses thethermoplasticsPLA, ABS, ABSi,polyphenylsulfone(PPSF),polycarbonate(PC), PETG andUltem9085, and among others.[18]These materials are used for their heat resistance properties. Ultem 9085 also exhibits fire retardancy making it suitable for aerospace and aviation applications.

FDM is also used in prototyping scaffolds for medical tissue engineering applications.[19]

Modified Groove Mount, Round Mount, Heatsink

Wood, ABS, Nylon, PLA and PET Materials

Wood, ABS, Nylon, PLA and PET Materials

Direct (Bowden with printed adapter)

PTFE Holder, PTFE Liner, Stainless Steel Barel, Aluminum Heater Block, Brass Nozzle

Direct (Bowden with printed adapter)

Direct (Bowden with printed adapter)

Groove Mount, Groove Mount for Bowden, Flat Plate

Several projects and companies are making efforts to develop affordable 3D printers for home desktop use. Much of this work has been driven by and targeted atDIY/enthusiast/early adoptercommunities, with additional ties to the academic andhackercommunities.[22]

RepRapis one of the longest running projects in the desktop category. The RepRap project aims to produce afree and open source hardware(FOSH) 3D printer, whose full specifications are released under theGNU General Public License, and which is capable of replicating itself by printing many of its own (plastic) parts to create more machines.[23][24]RepRaps have already been shown to be able to printcircuit boards[25]and metal parts.[26][27]

otheropensource hardwareproject forDIY3D printers.

Because of the FOSH aims ofRepRap, many related projects have used their design for inspiration, creating an ecosystem of related or derivative 3D printers, most of which are also open source designs. The availability of these open source designs means that variants of 3D printers are easy to invent. The quality and complexity of printer designs, however, as well as the quality of kit or finished products, varies greatly from project to project. This rapid development of open source 3D printers is gaining interest in many spheres as it enables hyper-customization and the use ofpublic domaindesigns to fabricateopen source appropriate technology. This technology can also assist initiatives insustainable developmentsince technologies are easily and economically made from resources available to local communities.[28][29]

The cost of 3D printers has decreased dramatically since about 2010, with machines that used to cost $20,000 now costing less than $1,000.[30]For instance, as of 2017, several companies and individuals are selling parts to build variousRepRapdesigns, with prices starting at aboutGB99/US$100[31][32]. The best selling desktop FDM printer[33],Prusa i3 MK2, costsUS$900assembled orUS$600for self-assembly kit[34].

The open [35]has developed printers for general use with anything that can be squirted through a nozzle, from chocolate to silicone sealant and chemical reactants. Printers following the projects designs have been available from suppliers in kits or in pre-assembled form since 2012 at prices in the US$2000 range.

TheLulzBot3D printers manufactured byAleph Objectsare another example of an open-source application of fused deposition modeling technology. The flagship model in the LulzBot line, the TAZ printer takes inspiration for its design from the RepRap Mendel90 andPrusa i3models. The LulzBot 3D printer is currently the only printer on the market to have received the Respects Your Freedom certification from theFree Software Foundation.[36]

Customer-driven product customization and demand for cost and time savings has increased interest in agility of manufacturing process. This has led to improvements in RP technologies and in particularly ofFused Deposition Modeling.[16]The Development of Extruders is going rapidly because of open source 3-D printer movement caused by products like RepRap. Consistent improvements are seen in the form of increased heating temperature of liquefier, the over-all control and precision of the process and improved support for wide variety of materials to print, including ceramics.

The ways extruders are mounted on the machine has also evolved over time into informal mounting standards. These informal standards include the Vertical X Axis Standard, the Quick-fit extruder mount, the OpenX mount, etc.

The majority of fused filament printers follow the same basic design. A flat bed is used as the starting point for the print workpiece. A gantry above this carries the moving print head. The gantry design is optimised for movement mostly in the horizontal X & Y directions, with a slow climb in the Z direction as the piece is printed.Stepper motorsdrive the movement through eitherleadscrewsortoothed beltdrives. It is common, owing to the differences in movement speed, to use toothed belts for the X,Y drives and a leadscrew for Z. Some machines also have X axis movement on the gantry, but move the bed (and print job) for Y. As, unlikelaser cutters, head movement speeds are low, stepper motors are universally used and there is no need to useservomotorsinstead.

Many printers, originally those influenced by theRepRapproject, make extensive use of 3D printed components in their own construction. These are typically printed connector blocks with a variety of angled holes, joined by cheap steelthreaded rod. This makes a construction that is cheap and easy to assemble, easily allows non-perpendicular framing joints, but does require access to a 3D printer. The notion ofbootstrapping3D printers like this has been something of a dogmatic theme within the RepRap designs. The lack of stiffness in the rod also requires eithertriangulation, or gives the risk of a gantry structure that flexes and vibrates in service, reducing print quality.

Many machines now use box-like semi-enclosed frames of either laser-cut plywood, plastic or pressed steel sheet. These are cheap, rigid and can also be used as the basis for an enclosed print volume, allowing temperature control within it to control warping of the print job.

A handful of machines use polar coordinates instead, usually machines optimised to print objects with circular symmetry. These have a radial gantry movement and a rotating bed. Although there are some potential mechanical advantages to this design for printing hollow cylinders, their different geometry and the resulting non-mainstream approach to print planning still keeps them from being popular as yet. Although it is an easy task for a robotsmotion planningto convert from Cartesian to polar coordinates, gaining any advantage from this design also requires the print slicing algorithms to be aware of the rotational symmetry from the outset.

A different approach is taken with Rostock pattern printers, based on adelta robotmechanism.[37]These have a large open print volume with a three-armed delta robot mounted at the top. This design of robot is noted for its low inertia and ability for fast movement over a large volume. Stability and freedom from vibration when moving a heavy print head on the end of spindly arms is a technical challenge though. This design has mostly been favoured as a means of gaining a large print volume without a large and heavy gantry.

As the print head moves the distance of its filament from storage coil to head also changes. This tugging on the filament is another technical challenge to overcome, if it is not to affect print quality.

RepRap Wiki Category:Thermoplastics

Universal Paste extruder Ceramic, Food and Real Chocolate 3D Printing

Brett P. Conner∗, Guha P. Manogharan, Ashley N. Martof, Lauren M. Rodomsky, Caitlyn M. Rodomsky, Dakesha C. Jordan, James W. Limperos; Manogharan; Martof; Rodomsky; Rodomsky; Jordan; Limperos (2014).Making sense of 3-D printing: Creating a map of additive manufacturing products and services.

CS1 maint: Multiple names: authors list (link)

uspto.gov.Trademark Status Document Retrieval (TSDR). uspto.gov

Taufik, Mohammad; Jain, Prashant K. (2016-01-05).A Study of Build Edge Profile for Prediction of Surface Roughness in Fused Deposition Modeling.

Journal of Manufacturing Science and Engineering, Transactions of the ASME

Chee Kai Chua; Kah Fai Leong, Chu Sing Lim (2003).

. World Scientific. p.124.ISBN70.

Design Guide: Fused Deposition Modeling

Wittbrodt, Ben; Pearce, Joshua M. (2015-10-01).The effects of PLA color on material properties of 3-D printed components.

: 110116.doi10.1016/j.addma.2015.09.006.

Lederle, Felix; Meyer, Frederick; Brunotte, Gabriella-Paula; Kaldun, Christian; Hbner, Eike G. (2016-04-19).Improved mechanical properties of 3D-printed parts by fused deposition modeling processed under the exclusion of oxygen.

Selc¸uk Guc¸eri, Maurizio Bertoldi; GçEri; Bertoldi (2014).Liquefier Dynamics in Fused Deposition.

Journal of Manufacturing Science and Engineering

Liquefier Dynamics in Fused Deposition

3DEX Extremely great filament 19.99.

Ferry Melchels et al 2011 Biofabrication 3 034114doi10.1088/1758-5082/3/3/034114

Prusa Nozzle MK2 Full Metal RepRap Hotend

Kalish, Jon.A Space For DIY People To Do Their Business (NPR.org, November 28, 2010)

Jones, R., Haufe, P., Sells, E., Iravani, P., Olliver, V., Palmer, C., & Bowyer, A. (2011). Reprap– the replicating rapid prototyper. Robotica, 29(1), 177-191.

Open source 3D printer copies itself. Computerworld New Zealand. 2008-04-07

An Inexpensive Way to Print Out Metal Parts – The New York Times

Gerald C. Anzalone, Chenlong Zhang, Bas Wijnen, Paul G. Sanders and Joshua M. Pearce, Low-Cost Open-Source 3-D Metal Printing

, 1, pp.803-810, (2013). doi: 10.1109/ACCESS.2013.2293018

Pearce, Joshua M.; et al.3-D Printing of Open Source Appropriate Technologies for Self-Directed Sustainable Development (Journal of Sustainable Development, Vol.3, No. 4, 2010, pp. 1729)

Disruptions: 3-D Printing Is on the Fast Track NYTimes.com

printers list with prices. 3ders.org

New Scientist magazine: Desktop fabricator may kick-start home revolution, 9 January 2007

Gay, Joshua (29 Apr 2013).Aleph Objects.

Results of Make Magazines 2015 3D Printer Shootout. docs.google.com

Evaluation Protocol for Make Magazines 2015 3D Printer Shootout. makezine.com

Stephens, Brent; Parham Azimia; Zeineb El Orcha; Tiffanie Ramos (November 2013).Ultrafine Particle Emissions from Desktop 3D Printers.

: 334339.doi10.1016/j.atmosenv.2013.06.050

How Fused Deposition Modeling Works. THRE3D.com. Archived fromthe originalon February 21, 2014

3D Printing process and How FDM technology works Video. homeshop3dprinting.com

Complete list of G-code used by 3D printers firmware of RepRap project. RepRap.org

CS1 maint: Multiple names: authors list

This page was last edited on 19 January 2018, at 16:23.

Text is available under the; additional terms may apply. By using this site, you agree to theTerms of UseandPrivacy Policy. Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of theWikimedia Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization.

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Build your own 3D printer filament extruder

3D printing is fun, creative, revolutionary; you name it. But to be honest, there is a huge downside to all our desktop FDM printers at home: its an expensive hobby. While 3D printers are steadily becoming cheaper, anyone who prints regularly will have noticed that those rolls of filament add up quickly. Even the cheapest spools tend to be around or above $30, and we seem to go through them will tremendous speed.

Of course, there are alternatives. Over the last few months several interesting filament extruders, that turn very inexpensive plastic pellets into filament, have launched on Kickstarter and Indiegogo. While they typically cost a few hundred dollars, these machines have the potential to save much more than that through the simple investment of time and effort. And they are evidently quite popular among the 3D printing community, as this model, afully automated desktop filament extruder & grinder ProtoCyclerraised more than $100,000 on Indiegogo a few months ago.

But when were focused on saving money in our 3D printing activities, why splurge on an extruder if there are even cheaper options around? Thats exactly why Turkish hobbyist Borsaci has decided to build a DIY filament extruder using a couple of web-based designs. Most importantly, he has shared his project for free onInstructablesand he encourages everyone to follow his example.

As Borsaci explains, it is remarkably easy to make using existing parts and common RepRap parts. After some research on the internet, I decided to use this simple design which is the core of many commercial filastruders. I prepared a simple CAD model for you to conceptualize the design easily. All these parts are easily found at every DIYers parts bin. Only serious design I made is the steel barrel body which is made by one of my friends who has a lathe, he explains.

While this project will require a bit of hands-on engineering skill, as Borsaci hasnt written up a step-by-step guide for this filament extruder, it should be a fun and challenging project for experienced makers. The principle is similar to every other filament extruder. Buy pellets online, and load these into the upper cone. The screw carries them to the front of the contraption, bringing them into contact with two cartridge heaters. The molten plastic is then extruded through a brass nozzle to form filament. According to my calculations the entire system can be driven with a powerful dc gearmotor or a big stepper like the one in the pic (nema23). Even a household drill can drive the system for few a hours. Borsaci adds.

To build it, you will need the following items:

Metal body in which the screw mechanism will work

Gearmotor (I am using scrap hand drill but windshield motor will do better)…

IRLZ44 Mosfet (any powerful logic mosfet will do the job)

16×2 LCD (optional to monitor heating values)

This means you might have to do some improvising, depending on the parts you still have laying around. Borsaci designed to system to extrude 1.75 mm filament for his own RepRap 3D printer, but you can add other nozzles to fit your own 3D printer. The radius of output filament can be monitored by a sensor for accuracy but I do not think I will need that as long as the shaft is driven at constant speed, he adds. The heating system itself features the ceramic 12v heaters and 100k thermistors also used in moth RepRap 3D printers. You could also add a PTC thermostat to measure the temperature and ensure a consisting melting temperature.

In short, this project relies on quite a bit of ingenuity and building skills, but as you can see in the clip below the results are definitely 3D printable. Its a perfect option for making 3D printing as affordable as possible.

Polypor C: new particle material for voxeljet 3D printers

University Of Dayton Research Institute wins $3M funding to develop new materials for aircraft parts

Objet break the 100 material range barrier

MSU uses Windform to build amateur radio satellite PrintSat on a 3D printer

3D printing using nylon to make flexible parts

Shapeways announced its first flexible 3D printed material Elasto Plastic

Time to save your failed prints for recycling

Filabots new website is on line now

Review of 9 recently released 3D printing materials(video)

3Ders.org provides the latest news about 3D printing technology and 3D printers. We are now six years old and have around 1.5 million unique visitors per month.

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3D Printer Extruder Nozzle Clogged? Here Is How To Unclog It

3D Printer Extruder Nozzle Clogged? Here Is How To Unclog It

3D Printer Extruder Nozzle Clogged? Here Is How To Unclog It

Steps and Tips to Clear a Blocked 3D Printer hot end

One of the challenges I hear about quite often is what to do when the 3D printer nozzle gets jammed or stuck. I have experienced this only once and the fix was quite easy, however, I have wanted to share some of the solutions that may help you unclog a hot end.

Each 3D printer is different, of course, and the manufacturer likely has recommendations for clearing their specific printer nozzle that you will want to follow, if at all possible.

In general, here are some tips and some of the best tutorials I have found (if you have seen some others, please share them via social media or email get in touch by clicking on my name in the byline above).

WARNING: Remember, read the fine print so that you do not void your warranty.

One of the best resources comes from Deezmaker, a 3D printer store, and hackerspace in Pasadena, California, that also created the Bukobot 3D printer. Founder and owner, Diego Porqueras, is often sharing in-depth posts and tips for not only his printer but 3D printing in general. HisNozzle Cleaning(under a Creative Commons license by-sa-3.0 unported, link at end) post is detailed and helpful and has inspired a great video walking you through the steps (listed after this section from Bukobot).

The safest and most effective way to completely clear the plastic from a nozzle, taking any contaminants with it, is what I call a cold pull. The idea behind the cold pull is to pull the filament out of a nozzle at a temperature cool enough to keep it in one piece (rather than leaving molten plastic in the hot zone), but still warm enough to allow the plastic to stretch enough to pull away from the sides of the barrel so that it doesnt seize up entirely. This is easiest to perform with a polished-smooth stainless steel barrel, with those that have a PTFE liner all the way to the end coming in second, because nozzle pressure can slightly compress the softer PTFE and create a plug that will be difficult to pull out.

The cold pull technique has been successfully done with both ABS (this was the best material to use for a long time, with a cold-pull temperature of about 160-180C) and PLA (much more difficult due to its thermal transition properties, but a cold-pull temperature of 80-100C will sometimes work), but Nylon 618 from Taulman (pull temperature of 140C) is far easier and more reliable to use for this purpose due to its strength, flexibility, and low friction.

The video I mentioned above is here:How To Unclog 3D Printer W/O Disassembly (Taulman).

It could be that your hot end, or nozzle, just has a small amount of residue or material build up sometimes you can clean it out with a probe. Some users recommend a thin wire, but that can scratch the inner wall of the nozzle, something you want to avoid.

The best material I have found is guitar string it is rigid, but will not scratch the metal interior of the nozzle. If you need something more durable, or more rigid, some short pieces of wire from a brass wire brush can work if used carefully. Often, you are just trying to dislodge a piece of clogged plastic (ABS or PLA).

Again, depending on your 3D printer, you may have to remove the printer head and clean it. This short two-minute video from user danleow on YouTube is helpful:100% Solved – Clean blocked extruder nozzle in 3D printing. He also sells a kit on eBay that some might want. He links to it from YouTube.

Signs of the blocked nozzle when the filament is not extruding uniformly, extrude very thin filament than usual or not coming out from the nozzle. What you need: Acetone, Torch, and very thin wire. Here are his steps:

Step 1: Soak the removed nozzle into acetone for about 15 minutes to clean out exterior dirt. Use a soft cloth to clean the nozzle.Step 2: Place a nozzle on a stone and burn it using the torch for about 1 min. Make sure it is extremely hot until you see slight changes in the color.Step 3: Use a very thin wire to clear the hole in the nozzle. If the wire cannot go through repeat step 2 again until it can go through. Do not force through the hole with the wire. You do not want to scratch/damage the internal wall of the nozzle. I use soft copper wire stripped from an unused phone cable.

Finally, the absolute most detailed resource I found is on MatterHackers where they explain:How To Clear and Prevent Jams on Your 3D Printer. Griffin Kahnke and Angela Darnall make it super clear:

If you have a 3D printer, at some point you may encounter a filament jam. This guide is intended to help you prevent such jams, or deal with them as painlessly as possible. Prevention is key! They explain how to understand what causes or can create jams in the first place, such as, nozzle height, temperature, tension, and calibration. They have some terrific visuals, too.

I am always on the lookout for new ways to solve 3D printer problems or improve a method of printing, so please get in touch by clicking on my name in the byline above.

Bukobot Nozzle Cleaning Post attribution:BY-SA-3.0

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ReDeTec

complete desktop filament recycler. Featuring integrated grinding and spooling, automatic computer control, and full safety certification. Create 3D printing filament sustainably, on demand, for free.

After a successful Indiegogo campaign, were now accepting orders.Buy Your ProtoCycler Today!

ProtoCycler is a home filament extruder that lets you create your own ink for your 3D printer at little to no cost.

Check out these awesome features

Up to 10x more energy efficient than competitors

Easy to use ABS and PLA presets included

Extrudes at speeds between 5 and 10 feet per minute

Create your own settings to experiment with other plastics

ProtoCycler comes with a built in grinder. Printer messed up? Need to update your design? Just dont like it? Grind it up and recycle it, safely and easily, until its exactly what you want!

Sure, you can order colored filament. But what about that particular shade of blue youre thinking of? Models that change color throughout? ProtoCycler does all of this and more.

ProtoCycler is intelligently controlled and fully automated, for professional quality filament every time. Manual mode, full documentation, and a support forum let you experiment with confidence.

ProtoCycler was designed from the ground up for homes, education, and makers. MixFlow™ eliminates the chance of a frozen up extruder and makes startup and shutdown a breeze. It also allows us to extrude at 5 ft/min or more with industry leading tolerances even with PLA! None of the competition even comes close and its still 10 times more energy efficient. Did we mention it was a major breakthrough?

Its faster. It allows better control on diameter. It even lets ProtoCycler know exactly how many feet of PLA or ABS filament youve extruded so far, so it can spool your filament for you. Speaking of which

No one wants to extrude 1500 ft of ABS or PLA filament, just to have to spool it by hand or with a drill. So ProtoCycler spools your filament for you, on any spool, big or small. Youre Welcome.

Success on Indiegogo means we now accept orders.Buy Your ProtoCycler Today.

Contact us:Email:Phone: (416) 535 8998

Copyright © 2014 ReDetec. All Rights Reserved.

Website by GeekPowerWeb Design In Toronto

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Filastruder another filament extruder on Kickstarter 3D Printer

Material costs, while still relatively low, can be one of the more expensive aspects of owning and operating a 3D printer. In fact, with professional 3D printers, many companies are opting to make the printers more affordable while putting a larger markup on the proprietary materials, which obviously makes operating the printer more expensive in the long run. Fortunately, this does not apply to most personal 3D printers because their manufacturers dont produce the spools of filament, even if they sell them; there are a couple exceptions, like 3D Systems personal printers that use proprietary spools that are more expensive than standard filament. Still, spooled filament costs more than the plastic its made out of.

Right now, ABS is about $15/lb and PLA is about $18/lb. Plastic pellets can be sourced for less than $4/lb in small batches, and less if you buy in bulk. If there was a way to turn pellets into filament, makers could save oodles on materials.

Oh wait, there are ways to do that! Several people have taken on the worthy task of creating filament extruders. First there was theFilabot, which after almost a year and a half has still not been delivered to frustrated Kickstarter backers, though Tyler says hes still building them. Hugh Lyman won $40,000 forhis open-source design of an extruder, which ison Thingiverse. And an extruder calledRecycleBotis also on Thingiverse. Now though, for those that dont want to build one (or wait for the Filabot), theres another extruder on Kickstarter calledFilastruder.

If you can get past the dubstep, the campaign video is pretty entertaining. Tim Elmore is a PhD student at the University of Florida studying Mechanical Engineering. His experience with 3D printing, and having to buy filament, is what spurred his interest in creating a filament extruder. He did his research on all of the extruders mentioned above and refined their designs to create an alpha unit; four of those units were sent to makers for testing. Their feedback led to the beta version, of which 12 were sent out for testing. After hundreds of hours of operation and plenty of feedback, Tim put the Filastruder on Kickstarter, where it was funded in an hour. That gives some indication to the high demand for such a machine.

The Filastruder can produce two to five pounds of filament in a day, in ABS and PLA. By adding colored pellets, any color can be extruded. Its clear that Tim has done his homework here, and Id say theres a good chance that the Filastruder beats the Filabot to market, especially considering that Tim has partnered with OS Printing LLC to assemble the Filastruder. Its also available as a kit, though. At $188,000, the campaign is working on stretch goals now, but if youd like one, theyre $300 fully assembled.

Cameron, Senior Staff Writer, is a technology enthusiast that can better write about 3D printing than he can ride a bike. His interest in 3D printing is mostly driven by his desire to become a cyborg. He enjoys philosophical conversation and is also fond of poetry and Star Trek. Connect with him onGoogle+.

It would be great to see them or someone else take this concept and create a 3D printer that takes pellets instead of filament. Or at least refine the idea into a compact design that can literally be used as an extruder on almost any 3D printer so that all the user has to do is simply upgrade their extrude to realize the benefits.

Pingback:Filastruder: another filament extruder on Kickstarter 3D Printer Juanjo Pina()

I have a Uprint Plus and need filiment for it , but its a propertiary filiment. ? abs . It needs a special input chip to tell the machine whats going on.

your extruder looks great and you have done you home work on the project. If you know of a work arond for Uprint Plus , would be more then happy to buy your extruder.

Pingback:Filastruder, otra extrusora de filamento en Kickstarter Fabricacin digital()

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Dongguan Songhu Plastic Machinery Corp

Dongguan Songhu Plastic Machinery Corp.

The supplier supports Trade Assurance A free service that protects your orders from payment to delivery.

Used for wire protection at railways, engines, traffic system engineering, air-conditioners, various machinery, power plants, chemical industries, power distribution system, communication system, vessels, mansions, factory buildings as well as outdoors exposed locations.

Dongguan Songhu Plastic Machinery Corp.is the professional manufacturer for kinds of plasticmachines, such as 3D printer filament extruder, plastic pipe extrusion line, plastic profile extrusion line, rattan bands making machine , plastic coating products making machine etc.

The target of Dongguan Songhu Plastic Machinery Corp. is do the high precision extrusion line for the global friends. With the advanced technology, experienced engineers and skilled workers, we have the capability to manufacture specific machines according to customers requirement.

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