Round Head Hotend for 3D Direct Filament Extruder 3D Printer Accessories

Round Head Hotend for 3D Direct Filament Extruder 3D Printer Accessories.

Hot End for 3D printer , For Filament size 1.75 size.

We Provide Optimum Quality and Fast Shipping which is self explanatory by Review others have given us please have look if you have any question of doubt. Our Prices are the Cheapest on E-bay, If you find any of our item Selling at cheaper price then Message us the details and we would provide you at same price. For providing such services many individuals and department of ours are working very hard24hr X 7 X 365 days, and we look for token of appreciation for all this by providing us with positive feedback.

For Any Technical Assistance and Guidance Please Post on Our ForumWe would get back to you for same.

Round Head Hotend for 3D Direct Filament Extruder 3D Printer Accessories.

Round Head Hotend for 3D Direct Filament Extruder 3D Printer Accessories.

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ABS Filament Extruder for 3D Printer Materials

Dongguan Taizheng Wire Machine Co., Ltd.

ABS Filament Extruder, Extruder for 3D Printer, ABS Material Extrduer manufacturer / supplier in China, offering ABS Filament Extruder for 3D Printer Materials, LAN Cable Extrusion Production Line, Copper Wire Stretch Film Wrapping Machine and so on.

TZ-EA ABS/PLA filament extrusion line

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Request a custom order and have something just for you!

This special extruder line is made specifically to produce strands with an exact Diameter of 30 and 175 mm diameter to be suitable for various brands of 3D printers It Can also be supplied for any other standard diameter you require and with any other Extruder size both single as well as twin screw extruder The better O D Control of the Monofilament equals better performance from your 3D Printer

Since 3D printing industrial are popular among the new market ABS extruder machien are widly used for printing materials extrusion 3D printing are popular in European countries for less comsumptions and high quality products producing it will be acceptable soon to all over the world

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twist/stranding machine(TZ-S series)

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winding&coiling machine(TZ-C series)

TZ-CA automatic coil winding machine

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Filament Extruder

The Infinity Motor/Generator

Automatic Pulse Fire Sequence Generator.

Honda PA50II Hot Rod Hobbit

When I was a kid (projects)

Pulse Motor Build Off 2017 PMBO2017

Pulse Motor Build Off pre-Xmas 2012

Here one can find my Filament extruder. this is my version of theLyman filament extruder

I want to be able to recycle my plastic and make more filament for myDelta 3D Printer Rostock

although there are plans and kits out there, This version is of my own thoughts and ideas, so far the only thing i have bought for this project was the wood auger bit for 8$ used as an extruder auger. I  also bought used hair dryers for 2$. i used the Nickel Chromium heat wire for the last heater band. other than that this was all stuff from other discarded goods and recycled junk…

This is a work in progress, here is a full play list of the videos below:

Hears an updated photo of the setup:

The Below 3 videos are for Russs Helix Looper that is an oscillator for the extruder spooling system. :

Work continues on the caliper measure device with Bob, from making stuff. PID :

Back to the regular programing… ( kinda)

The next 2 videos go hand in hand…

any of the 3d prints you have seen in this project can be downloaded here:

Most of theses files are drawn inGoogle Sketchup

Pulse Motor Build Off 2017 PMBO2017

Pulse Motor Build Off pre-Xmas 2012

When I was a kid (projects)

3D Printer Oversize Delta RWG-OSD

Delta 3D Printer Rostock

Automatic Pulse Fire Sequence Generator.

CR-39 Research, Nuclear Track Testing

Honda PA50II Hot Rod Hobbit

Photographic Evidence of Stanley Meyers work

Stanley Meyer WFC Water Injector Technology

Lecture/open discussion of my work on the EPG system

The Infinity Motor/Generator

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3D printer improvements Rollerstruder a filament feeder driver extruder

From the community for the community, mostly via heavily customized tools

Somelinksabout me. Many of my3D designsare free. I also post onGoogle+and in another

Rollerstruder: a filament feeder / driver / extruder

The rollerstruder filament drive system on an Ultimaker

Almost one year ago I got rid of the plywood Ultimaker filament drive mechanism. It is an extremely important part of theFDMprocess as it pushes the (cold) filament towards the (hot) end. Any malfunction at this stage systematically leads to a bad print. So when not reliable, you have to stay close and react quickly to fix troubles, for example by feeding the filament further manually (btw checkthisif you are still doing it on an Ultimaker).

As for me, most of the trouble came from the old bolt that was shipped with my printer: it was grinding my filaments a lot, sometimes to the point it would stop moving completely and ruin the hour-longprintable kalashnikov. It also lackedBerthosaddition of a ball bearing on the idler arm, which soon became part of the official design.

In fact I just dont know about the new official drive mechanism (which seems way more reliable given the forum feedback), because Idesigned my ownfeeder that has to match my more efficient but unsualhobbed bolt. It suits me completely: months of intensive usage without a failure. And I learnt a lot of openscad and industrial design by the way.

So: filament feeder, filament extruder, drive mechanism?There is a common and somehow accepted confusion here. Many printers have a direct drive, where the whole system is in one piece or so, so there is much less ambiguity. But the Ultimaker is part of the smaller family of 3D printers that features a bowden tube, which makes the head lighter: the melting nozzle is on one side of the tube, while the filament driving mechanism is tens of centimeter farther on the other side of the tube. The filament slides into the bowden tube towards the hot zone.

As for me the filament extruder means the entire filament drive mechanism.

Then, some people refer to the cold end and the hot end of the extruder. I usually call the first the filament feeder (or driver).

The hot end is composed of a nozzle, heating cartridge, temperature sensor, thermal isolation, mount plate, and no moving mechanical part. But this is another story, I will not talk about the hot end here: my goal is just to drive a plastic filament forward and backwards reliably. Actually, it may even prove useful to systems that are unrelated to 3D printers.

Expected featuresPrinting his own filament feeder is like carving hisown hobbed boltor designing his own hot end. There are many options to choose from, and novel ideas are still possible.

Moreover, some freedom stem from the fact that I have no production requirements. As with the hobbed bolt, I do not care if the thing cannot be mass-produced or not. Indeed, some of the very efficient 3D printed designs may never make it to companies that sell 3D printers because they simply take too much time to produce. As I recalledhere, 3D printing is right for prototyping, but not for mass production.

Moving on: here are the features I had in mind:

reliable drive: reduced slipping and grinding, really avoid filament stalling

printable with regular material such as PLA (beware of the stepper motor heat!)

easy to disassemble, and open: be able to check if everything is fine at anytime

make filament change easy and quick (to reduce the pause required by multicolored prints, though I almost never played with this — so far)

quick to print (2-3 hours), partly because I wanted to test variants quickly and partly because I do not like prints that exceeds 2-3 hours! Also I did not want to use kilograms of plastic each time.

easy to print with minimal cleanup afterwards: I had to reduce both overhangs and the number of parts: there is one part for the body plus the 3-part bowden clamp (will be reduced further)

use only cheap 608ZZ regular skate/roller bearings: since I bought 100 for $36 including S&H I just cannot use other bearings, hence the name! More seriously, I also wanted to increase the contact area between the idler roller bearing and the drive bolt, because I am sure it makes it more reliable (check myanalysis here).

I reached revision 5.3, after hundreds of hours spent on this design, and I am very happy with my results (this makes one happy customer at least!). I hope you will find it usable or interesting also.

Finally, I designed it entirely with the freeOpenscad. On one hand you get quite a big project for this software (a hefty 35KB 1000+ lines, not counting the three parts of the bowden clamp). On the other hand you get something completely parametric: wall thickness, bolt and roller dimensions, almost everything can be changed and the part will adapt to it. Not many light CAD programs may brag about this.

There are a lot of filament feeder / extruders out there, but I could not resist to build my own. It is a very good experience because this is a tricky thing to design and to tune, and I learned a lot by way. The Openscad STL and sources can be downloadedhere.

no vitamins besides a few M3 bolts and 3 cheap skate roller bearings, one of which is grooved by hand. Also one 30mm M8 screw for the idler bearing.

the idler arm and its interleaved hinge is printed at the same time as the body

the bowden plug can be removed sideways: in a mere seconds you can change your filament color if you pre-equipped another filament roll with another bowden tube and clamp

the position of thesmall gearagainst the big wheel can be tuned very precisely with adjustment screws, which limits backlash in retraction

the stepper motor heat is isolated by the use of pieces of PTFE bowden tubes, which also reduces the noise transferred from the motor to the chassis

finally, the filament enters the bowden tube extremely close to my owndriving bolt(less chance that it moves or bends or breaks in between)

The rollerstruder explained: this filament feeder a few novel but very useful features in my opinion

Printing the thingTo date, I printed 8-10 revisions using different sets of parameters. My goal was also to make it robust against the slicers and software. A few features may be impacted by the layer thickness, such as the printed-in-place hinge of the idler (bottom left moving arm in the picture below). But I left enough void where needed so that it can be printed from 0.2 to 0.1 layer height without issues.

Filling need not be 100%. I usually chose 20-30%. There are hair-like reinforcements in the design (most notably in the hinge), so as to make it more robust even with lower filling percentages.

you did not over-extrude too much, else the interleaved hinge parts will be welded to each other.

These two tabs must be removed. It should be easy with pair of flat nose pliers.

Here you are, you will have to clean it up a bit with a scalpel or a filer.

Cleaning up the mounting jawsThe jaws are specific to the Ultimaker. They were printed with vertical walls to avoid the requirement of support structures that would pollute all other the body otherwise. In a next revision, I think I will make them a separate thing so the feeder can be used on other printers more easily.

you will need a sharp knife to finish properly.

I tried to specify very thin walls but it could led to bad slicing

Mount the bolt roller bearingsUse two 608ZZ skate roller bearings and a M8 bolt, two washers and a nut to lock them in place.

This is the setup I use to install the two 608ZZ skate bearings

Screw slowly but with force, make sure the bearings are aligned and lay flat

End like this, when they are flush with the top & bottom surfaces

This bolt is optional, because the bowden will probably not pop out of its slot so easily. But better be safe than sorry, so I recommend adding it.

I think this is an interesting improvement: use two 40mm pieces of heat-resistant used bowden tube to act as thermal and noise insulators. They will lay in the gutters on the printed body.

They isolate the printed support from the stepper heat (and noise)

Use four 15mm M3 screws through the support and the PTFE tubes.

It should look like this when done. The screws must be long enough to lock

the stepper tightly, but not completely flatten the pieces of bowden tube.

The gears tightening screws and setup

They act by pushing sideways on the perpendicular mounting screws of the stepper sideways (for opposite directions). I like this system a lot because they let you set very precisely how far the driving gears are apart. The small nuts may require heating to be pushed in their slot (this could be easier imho, but it worked well for me).

Then insert your hobbed bolt (how to make it). Use a washer only on the gear side.

Hobbed bolt inserted — btw, you see one of the oblique stepper adjustment screws

You can use one washer and a butterfly nut to hold the big wheel in place,

on the hobbed bolt without screwing the wheel itself too much.

Hold the wheel with your index if it starts to turn with the nut,

because the driving bolt must still rotate with great ease on the bearings!

One sheet of paper is a good indicator between the two wheels,

this is where to use the oblique screws to tighten the stepper in the good position.

Mount the idler roller bearingThis bearing has a groove in it, but I used a regular one.

Just mount it on a long M8 bolt with two nuts and clamped the bolt on your table. Then use a grinder with a very slight angle to let the bearing roll (very, wow!) quickly, while the small angle made grinding compulsory at the same time.

Give time for the bearing to cool regularly, and proceed with caution of course!

This prevents the filament from getting out of it, though it is probably

superfluous because of the way the bowden tube comes very close to the bolt (see below).

As you can see this body warped a bit when printed 🙁

Here is how I mount the spring on the idler

This is something that would benefit from a two arm lever. But it is still easy to setup. Use a M4 bolt, where the head goes in the shape on the body. The big washer is superfluous below.

Better add a washer and a grower washer before the butterfly nut, so it will not try to unscrew.

it helps to guide the filament into the driving bolt when I am not using a spool,

I just rotate it when I need to , and I am not sure it is really useful.

This is derived fromOwens clampbut my forthcoming revision will use a design that will be smaller and faster to print. The original dimensions are not compatible, though the top screw may, I cannot tell.

If you pre-mount multiple bowden tube with it, you will be able

I will replace it by a more compactblind rivet nutattachment one day (one nasty vitamin though).

Here it is mounted. Just unscrew the top lateral locking screw, slide it in place and tighten the screw.

Note that I added a heatsink on the stepper as my PLA body started to melt a few hours after I tuned my extruder pololu driver power way too high : the stepper became so hot that the mounting screws were able to transfer enough heat from the motor to the other part of the body and though the PFTE isolators!

At the time I just added a 40mm fan on top of the heatsink to finish my ultrafast but hour-long print (350mm/s). I suspect I could remove it now that I reduced the pololu power to something more acceptable.Printing 3mm wood filament (bad quality)

Printing an old nylon trimmer line (2.4mm)

Once again, you can download the fileshere on Thingiverse(but expect this to change as Makerbot started tosteal and try to patent our free designs). The gears are the same as the stock ones, but I have designedreplacements.

Posted byJeremie Francoisat12:20 PMLabels:bowden tubefeedermechanicalmotorreplacementNewer PostOlder PostHomeSubscribe to:Post Comments (Atom)About MeJeremie FrancoisIf you know me and you cannot tell exactly what my real job is, then you probably found the right Jeremie. Checkzax.frfor some pointers.

I am self-employed and I help start-ups, research centers, small companies with their needs related to computers, sensors, data processing and mechatronics. If you have a project and know what R&D is, then you already sparked my interest 😉

survival kitopenscad tutorialmaterial for artistswhat cannot be 3D…

How to use Openscad (1), tricks and tips to design a parametric 3D object

Part 1/5: Introduction to constructive solid geometry with Openscad Some technical and non-technical people keep asking me how I create…

Kill your 3D printer when it gets lazy ! Given the heat a 3D printer can generate, even when idle, I would better kill it than let it po…

3D printing with a smaller nozzle diameter

For sure, a smaller nozzle produces finer details, but how tricky and troublesome it can be! Is it worth using a smaller nozzle on a …

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Part 2/5: Variable and parametric design The previous part addressed the basics of Openscad. Itrelied mostly on immediate values…

3D printing with cheap Nylon trimmer line/string

Copyrights and 3D printing: a forthcoming war bigg…

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More links? mycurriculum, designed3D objectspanoramaspicturescompany, and

This work is licensed CC BY-SA 4.0. Awesome Inc. theme. Powered byBlogger.

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The Palette Filament Feeding System

10 Best Rated 3D Printers Available on Amazon Winter 2018

Best 3D Printers 2018 Buyers Guide

The Palette Filament Feeding System

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Mosaic Manufacturing just launched The Palette filament feeding system. It can be attached to almost any FDM 3D printer and with it you can print objects in multiple colors or multiple material properties.

There have been many systems that promised fluid color changes and color mixing but most of them were based on new specialised extruders and in-nozzle mixing which made real application complex and heavy. The Palette approaches this problem differently and comes in the form of a separate box where all the filament mixing magic happens.

The Palette can attach to most 3D printers and uses most standard filament spools

You can use The Palette with a direct drive or a Bowden extruder since from the printers point of view, using the The Palettes output is essentially the same as pulling a single filament from a spool.  It is compatible with almost any printer that uses .gcode or .x3g, 1,75mm filament and has accessible filament feed-in! The custom software uses any standard .gcode or .x3g and then modifies it to run on your printer and makes separate .SEEM file to control The Palette. There is a plan to make its software and firmware open source.

The Palette attachment schematics with a scroll wheel

The Palette unit and some objects printed with it

Here is the video explaining how The Palette works:

and here is another one showing it in action:

Since it does more then just mix colors it can easily switch two different filaments like PLA and conductive filament to 3D print a working flashlight:

The Palette Kickstarter campaign is currently gaining a lot of attention and funding, two days in it they have already received two times the amount they were aiming for and the funding is sure to rise even more. At the time of this article they have 265 backers who pledged $139,463 of$75,000initialgoal. You can get it if you pledge $899 which makes it much cheaper the a new high-end multiple extruder 3D printer but still somewhat pricy for external attachment. There are no independent reviews yet but judging from the community comments I see bright future for The Palette and similar projects that are sure to follow inspired by it.  Kudos to the Mosaic team!

I try without success to contact Mosaic Manufacturing web site from France.

I need some informations for my printer home made.

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Best 3D Printers 2018 Buyers Guide

Pre-assembled 3D Printers for Beginners

10 Best 3D Printers Available on Amazon

The Palette Filament Feeding System

10 Best Rated 3D Printers Available on Amazon Winter 2018

The Best 3D Printed Gifts You Can Buy Online

A List of 32 Affordable 3D Printers Under $500 USD

Refurbished, Second-hand / Used 3D Printers

Best 3D Printers 2018 Buyers Guide

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Review LulzBot FlexyStruder Flexible Filament Extruder

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Review: LulzBot FlexyStruder Flexible Filament Extruder

Senior Editor for Make: I get ridiculously excited seeing people make things. I just want to revel in the creativity of the masses! My favorite thing in the world is sharing the hard work of a maker.

Id always love to hear about what youre making, so send me an email any time at[emailprotected]

Senior Editor for Make: I get ridiculously excited seeing people make things. I just want to revel in the creativity of the masses! My favorite thing in the world is sharing the hard work of a maker.

Id always love to hear about what youre making, so send me an email any time at[emailprotected]

Side by side: Standard in black, FlexyStruder in green.

Flexible filaments can be printed on many extruders. However, if you look at the most common designs for extruders, they rely on the rigidity of the filament to go from your drive gear to the hot end. In the example of LulzBots standard extruder there is a gap of roughly 10mm. While ABS and PLA are rigid enough not to bend in 10mm, NinjaFlex can quite easily.

If you read about flexible material printing on 3D printing forums, youll see that this causes an issue for many people. LulzBot has designed a system specifically for flexible filaments that has no gap between the drive gear and the hot end. Below, you can see both models, the standard in black and the FlexyStruder in green.

Side by side: Standard in black, FlexyStruder in green.

Tension system of standard extruder

Im testing the FlexyStruder on aLulzBot TAZ 4. The entire unit was supplied for the review. I have a LulzBot A0-100 on my workbench, but they wanted to make sure I was working with the latest and greatest for best results. Im glad they did too as the quick swap tool head that they use was very convenient. It is one single screw and 3 wire plugs to switch heads. I did not calibrate my FlexyStruder as youre supposed to, I was curious to see how it would print without me fiddling with it. After the first print, I decided that I didnt want to calibrate it as the print quality was fantastic.

NinjaFlex prints a little bit differently than ABS or PLA, it oozes and strings. Aside from that, I had no real issues whatsoever. I did find that when beginning a new print I would have best results if I would prime the nozzle by extruding a bit to build up pressure, otherwise it would not begin to come out of the extruder immediately. I experienced no clogs or print failures.

After printing a bunch of designs with zero issues, I thought it would be nice to compare the normal head to the FlexyStruder head. I swapped them out and began to print.

The very first time I tried to extrude, the NinjaFlex kinked right at the drive gear.

See the little orange bit at the center of the image? That is the bulge of NinjaFlex

I re-seated it and tried again and it began pushing the ABS out of the way (I had been printing with ABS on the standard extruder). Once it began extruding plastic I had no more kinks. I have had zero issue printing NinjaFlex on this standard extruder since the first feed. There have been no kinks or clogs.

Out of curiosity, I tried the flexible filament in my A0-100 and found that I had clogs or kinks about half the time causing the print to fail. I suspect the newer extruder works better due to a better thermal design at the hot end.

The biggest problem I had with printing NinjaFlex with the standard extruder was the fact that there were remnants of ABS in there. The different consistency of the NinjaFlex means that it didnt clear out the extruder as quickly as might happen if I was just pushing more ABS through. ABS would randomly plop through for several prints, causing major issues in print quality.

Once the ABS was purged from the system however, the quality of the print between LulzBots latest standard extruder and the FlexyStruder was minimal. It appears as though the FlexyStruder might supply a more consistent pressure resulting in a slightly higher quality print.

However, the difference between my older model was considerable due to mis-feeds and clogs.

While it may be possible to simply use the FlexyStruder for all materials, it appears as though it may be more difficult to access the drive gear should you need to clean it, like I frequently have to on my older printer.

Prime your extruder by extruding until filament actually comes out the tip before you print. The flexible nature of the filament reduces the pressure as it sits.

Run a lot of filament through your extruder if youre switching from rigid to flexible materials. The prints that had ABS debris were ruined.

It is also worth noting that the FlexyStruder, like everything at Lulzbot is open source. This meansyou can download the filesto print your own if you would like.

Senior Editor for Make: I get ridiculously excited seeing people make things. I just want to revel in the creativity of the masses! My favorite thing in the world is sharing the hard work of a maker.

Id always love to hear about what youre making, so send me an email any time at[emailprotected]

Senior Editor for Make: I get ridiculously excited seeing people make things. I just want to revel in the creativity of the masses! My favorite thing in the world is sharing the hard work of a maker.

Id always love to hear about what youre making, so send me an email any time at[emailprotected]

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Robox 3D printer

CNET tambin est disponible en español.

CNET editor Dong Ngo talks about the Cel Robox, answers a burning question about 3D printing and offers some other advice.

The GoodThe Robox 3D printer has an innovative nozzle design, and can print very quickly. The printer uses proprietary smart filament spools, but also works with third-party materials.

The BadThis expensive printer cant print directly from an SD card or thumbdrive, and it requires an unintuitive manual calibration. Its print quality is marginal with a high failure rate on its print jobs, and using third-party filament with it will void the warranty.

The Bottom LineThe Robox 3D printers very fast print speed isnt quite worth its lengthy, problematic setup and disappointing print quality.

The new Robox 3D printer from Cel is a great idea only half realized. Between its fast printing speed and uncommon features, theres a lot to like about it. Getting in the way, though, are poor print quality and an overcomplicated calibration process. Thats why in the end, it can wind up being very frustrating.

The Robox is the first 3D printer Ive tested that uses two nozzles for a single source of filament, which lets it print much faster than other machines. Unfortunately, to get the best results, you have to manually calibrate it through a difficult and lengthy process. But even worse, the speed didnt matter much in the end as the Roboxs print quality was disappointing and failed prints occurred more often than Id like to see.

Depending on your skills and level of patience, the Robox can be a good experience or a terrible one. I just found mine closer to the latter. Keep this in mind before spending $1,499 to buy one. (In the UK, its 999.90, and in Australia its currently on sale for AU$1,495.)

For something thats easier to use with more consistent print quality, Id recommend theXYZPrinting Da Vinci 1.0 AiO, theCube 3 from 3D Systemsor theBe3D DeeGreen.

With its two print nozzles, the Robox looks like a regular dual-extruder 3D printer when you first take it out of the box. Look closer, though, and youll see something unusual: while other dual-extruder machines need a filament spool for each nozzle, the Robox uses only one (Cel prefers to call the spools reels, but the only difference is in the terminology).

How does it work? Its simple: the single reel feeds both nozzles, with one nozzle dedicated to printing fine details and the other to filling in larger areas of a job. Its a brilliant idea that worked well in my testing, making the Robox by far the fastest 3D printer Ive seen. Ill talk more about the quality in the Performance section below.

Thats why it seemed odd that the Robox has a second, but unused, filament intake. Cel said the reason was that in the future, the printer can be updated with another printhead that feeds from two reels. If that happens, though, theres no space to add another reel holder. And as I see it, a second reel would just add bulk to the Roboxs pleasantly compact size of 14.5×13.4×9.4 inches (370x340x240mm).

Roboxs active print platform shares the same mechanism design as theCube 3. That means that during a print job the platform moves backward and forward while the printhead moves sideways and up and down. I like that for such a small printer, the Robox has a large print platform: it can build objects measuring up to 8.3×5.9×3.9 inches (210x150x100mm).

The printer has a removable print bed, which is the top part of the print platform. That makes it easy to remove and clean, a necessary step in the calibration process.

The Robox connects to computer via a USB port on the back. The printer doesnt have an SD card slot, a touchscreen or any control button located on the unit itself, other than the on/off switch. As a result, you cant use it without a computer. Everything needs to be done via thedownloadable AutoMaker software, which is available for Windows, Mac and Linux platforms.

On the whole, the software worked well in my trials — despite some random errors and freezes — and has a high level of customization. You can change any settings, including the openings of the printing nozzles themselves. Most importantly, the software also guides you through the calibration process.

The Robox can automatically level the print bed, which it does before each print. Yet, you also need to manually calibrate it, especially the Nozzle Opening and Nozzle Height, both of which require a lot of work. The former determines the amount of material output for each nozzle and the latter makes sure the nozzles are at a perfect distance from the print bed below.

Manually calibrating a 3D printer is always tricky and time-consuming, but the Roboxs process is worse than usual, thanks to the vague wording of the instructions.

For example, when adjusting the nozzles openings, the instructions tell you to gradually use the software to open them bit by bit until you see the material flowing out. What exactly is meant by flowing, isnt defined, however, and its hard to know when the nozzle is properly opened. After talking to Cel, I learned that you need to merely open the nozzle until the materialappearsat the tip. Opening it further would be too much. That kind of detail is useful, but you wont find it in the included instructions.

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Homemade DIY 3D Printer Filament Extruder

This is a basic tutorial for building your very own filament extruder for under $200! This machine creates 1.75 mm filament but can be changed to make 3 mm filament if needed. Please leave comments if you have any questions!

Various lengths and types of wood for construction of the base.

12 x 3/4 threaded galvanized steel pipe

1/2 Square steel key (for motor spindle to auger bit connection)

2 sockets that will connect the end of the auger bit to the square steel piece then to the nut on the motor spindle

Solid State Relay 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC / 25A

K-Type Thermocouple (sometimes bundled with PID and Relay)

3/4 Galvanized steel flange (for pipe mounting)

3 Hinges (optional; makes wiring easier)

Everything can be found at your local hardware store with the exception of the electrical components which i found on eBay/Amazon! Just search part listed.

This part is purely based on the size of extruder you want to make. My base dimensions are 28 inches long by 6 inches wide by 6 inches deep. The supports on the top are each 5 inches tall and spaced 5 inches apart. Cut holes in the front according to the type of speed controller, PID controller, and switches you are using.

Using the dremel, cut an opening in the pipe near the flange. The opening for this extruder is 2 inches long and half way down the height of the pipe. Now for the auger bit, you may need to grind down the end of it so that it fits nicely into the pipe and turnsFREE OF OBSTRUCTION. This is crucial, otherwise the motor will be under too much stress. You may also need to grind down some of the inside of the pipe to get smooth turning. Additionally, you should cut off the pointed tip on the auger bit, as this part really is not needed. The end of the auger should sit approximately 1.5 inches from the end of the pipe without the nozzle attached. This leaves room for installation of the thermocouple 🙂

I used the existing holes in the face of the motor to screw into two blocks of wood mounted at the back of the extruder. Mounting the motor at the correct height is extremely important! If the motor is mounted at an incorrect angle or height, too much stress will be placed on the motor and smooth turning will not be achieved. The method i used for mounting allows a good amount of adjustment, so you should be able to adjust it until the alignment is perfect. Now for mounting the auger to the motor. The motor spindle is threaded, so what I did was I used some epoxy to secure a nut onto the end of it and torqued it down very tightly. Then, onto this nut I placed a correctly sized socket that fits a 3/8 ratchet. Then I cut the square steel piece to the appropriate length, then on to that I used another socket that fit tightly onto the end of the auger bit. At this joint, I covered everything with epoxy to help dissuade the auger from slipping. If any connection seems weak in your set-up, feel free to add epoxy to it, too much wont hurt!

In order to achieve the 1.75 mm thicknessafter cooling, I determined that the appropriate size hole to drill was around 1.35 mm, which accounts for the expansion of the filament as it extrudes out of the nozzle. If you own a drill press, use it to drill this hole. Though it is optional using this method, the straighter the hole the easier it is to control the filament after it exits the nozzle. If you are good with a handheld drill, it will work fine for this procedure.

For the band heater, it was slightly too large so i needed to create a small spacer for it to fit properly. If you can find a perfect size for this, then ignore this part. My spacer was a piece of 3/4 copper tube that I cut length-wise and re-bent it according to the curvature of the outer diameter of the steel pipe. Once proper contact between the pipe and the heater is achieved, its just a matter of fastening the bolts tight so that the heater is securely mounted at the end of the nozzle.

For mounting the thermocouple, I drilled a small hole that is according to the size of the end of the thermocouple that you are using for this. I mounted the thermocouple after the band heater, because the important temperature reading is after the heating element and before the exit of the filament. Once a hole is drilled and the thermocouple is inserted, i covered the whole assembly in JB Weld High Heat epoxy. It is important to use high heat epoxy, otherwise it will burn when testing.

I designed and 3D printed a mount for the fan at my school, however any basic mounting mechanism may be used to achieve proper cooling of the filament at the end of the nozzle.

A wiring diagram is to come, but I will do my best to explain the wiring in words.

Using any 120V 3-prong plug and wire, strip the ends and connect the ground to the ground screw on the power supply. Route one of the other two wires through a main power switch, then connect it to either the L or N screw on the power supply. Then connect the third wire in the main power chord to the other either L or N port that you did not use on the switch side. Now you have a main power switch!

The controller should come with a wiring diagram for each port that is on the back of the box. Connect the positive and negative ports to positive and negative screws on the power supply, routing one of the wires through a switch.

Connect the 12v side of the relay to the PID in ports 6 and 8, respecting the positive and negative symbols on the power supply. Connect port 1 of the relay (120v side) to the L on the power supply, and connect port 2 to one of the ports on the heater. The other port on the heater connects to the N on the power supply.

MotorConnect the motor speed controller (on the power side on the circuit board) to the power supply, routing either the positive or negative wire through a switch. Then connect the motor to the motor speed controller on the motor side of the circuit board (should be printed on the circuit board).

Route the power for the fan through the power for the motor. This means that the positive and negative wires from the fan will be mounted to the motor side on the motor speed controller circuit board. The reason it is connected to this is so that once the motor is turning, the fan will be powered on. There is no need to be running the fan if the motor is not on.

The two wires on the thermocouple will be mounted on the back of the temperature controller. The blue wire goes in port 3 and the red wire goes in port 4.

To get to the autotune feature on the temperature sensor, hold down Set until you see the word HIAL. Then press down until you see Ctrl, and adjust the value to 2. Continue pressing Set until you see the temeprature readout. Set the desired temperature using the up and down arrows. Keep in mind that you can change the location of the number place you change using the left arrow. (i.e. you can go from 210 to 220 by changing the 1 to a 2 instead of having to click the up arrow 10 times)

From my experience, setting the temperature to around 210 degrees Celsius works perfectly for melting ABS pellets. This will take around 15-20 minutes to heat up. Additionally, the best speed for me has been at about the 1/3 speed on the potentiometer, meaning only spin the dial 1/3 as far as it can go. This usually lies around 40 RPM, which is ideal for testing. Keep in mind, if you go too fast, too much pressure builds up in the nozzle, and things tend to break under high pressure, which is a bad thing.

I designed and 3D printed a hopper assembly that fits over the pipe with 2 pieces bolted together. If you do not have access to the required technology, you can just construct your own hopper or even use a 2 liter bottle for the hopper, as long as there is a way to automatically feed pellets into the extruder. That is, unless you prefer the less passive side of dropping the pellets in yourself.

Congratulations! You now have your very own homemade filament! Extrude as little or as much as you want and enjoy cheap, cost-efficient filament for your 3D printer! Happy printing! 🙂

I love this. I spent 8 years working with extrusion and high speed injection moulding equipment. A few tips Id give are

Use a plastic like polypropylene as a purge after youve finished as its easy to clean out and doesnt burn up like pvc.

Be very careful with the plastics/polymers you use as some can give off some nasty gasses like formaldehyde (acetal)

Have a look at a water bath and a haul off belt/winding mechanism to ensure you have a consistent tension and temperature reduction for a perfect finish to your strands.

In doing the above you could possibly have a double or triple strand unit from drilling extra holes in your former..

I have looked into the water bath and winding mechanism and they are on the to-do list for this extruder 🙂

Also, thats a fantastic idea with the double and triple strands! I will definitely be trying that! The only problem I can see is I will just have to make sure the strands never touch. 🙂

Thats where the water bath and haul off unit comes into play. you can use profiled belts

how big should the hole in the nozzle be?

Hello I am about to start 3d printing and have thought about doing this, over time.

How good does the fillament work for those that have done it?

Where do most buy their pellets, how much volume do you need to buy, and what does the cost come to?

Is the thermocouple supposed to go all the way into the middle of the pipe or not all of the way through

I am wanting to build this but I am having trouble finding the heater band. It is sold out on Ebay and not sure where else to find it. Is there any other solution?

does anyone know where i can get the steel key? also, would aluminium work instead?

aluminum works just fine. see my shopping list post for a link

When will a diagram for wiring be out?

I was able to do fine with just the words, try reading them over– youll see that theyre not that hard to follow

for anyone who is interested, I have compiled a shopping list of all the parts. Please note that all the items are the cheapest I could find online, all have free shipping(all amazon items are prime eligible, except for the cooling fan), and work for this project. Also, I couldnt find the flange, sockets or the 12 threaded rod online, so I got those at Home Depot. I did find a motor online($30-$50), but I got that much cheaper($5) at a junk yard

12V Windshield wiper motor (junk yard)

1/2 Square steel key (for motor spindle to auger bit connection)

2 sockets that will connect the end of the auger bit to the square steel piece then to the nut on the motor spindle (home depot)

Solid State Relay 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC / 25A (bundled with the PID)

K-Type Thermocouple (bundled with PID and Relay)

But I bought from aliexpress directly . PLA/ABS Pellet . extruder .printer .

Ive had problems with filament melting inside the barrel onto the auger bit, preventing it from turning. How would I fix this?

yes, I realised this wasnt the problem preventing it from turning. the motor had two different settings; fast and slow. I realised that I had it on fast that didnt have much torque, so when I changed to the slower setting, the auger bit began to move again. Horay!

Now I can begin ordering parts for this build! 😛

this is confusing but, very very helpful I wish that it showed how to make the filament and not the 3D printer extruder

Hi great instructables, can i use this PID controller where you buy your pallets?

Yes that PID will work perfectly, and I purchase my pellets in bulk on eBay

but, how to deal with the gas produced by the operation of the machine?

That shouldnt be a problem as long as you arent burning the plastic, but to be safe just run it in a well ventilated area

You need good ventilation, maybe you can stay in another room while the machine is working and have a open window with a fan near. Do not use in a closed enviroment where the gases cannot be exhausted.

is it possible to do this using 12 volts for the whole assembly because i was thinking i could power it with an xbox 12 volt power supply that supplys up to 175 watts

As long as all your other electrical components require 12 volts and draw the proper wattage you should be good!

Cool project! Thank you for sharing it.

A small suggestion: Your main image is a bit dark. Could you take another photo so we can better see the whole thing, including the buttons on the front? Daylight/outdoor could work well.

Excellent! Way to promote lowering the cost!

Can this be used to make some Acetal filament?

Id be careful with acetal as if the temperature is too high itll release noxious gas. formaldehyde

As long as you can find bulk plastic pellets then any type of plastic for filament can be used! Keep in mind you will need to determine the appropriate temperature and motor speed for extruding if you are going to experiment with different types of materials.

The melt temperature is around 350f….

That temperature is easily reachable with this machine 🙂

Ah nice to see more people building such things.

of the making of the filament ofcourse

This is awesome seeing that you can get a reliable result from a $200 machine when they are normally $900 on the cheap end

Thats why I posted this 🙂 Everyone who owns a 3D printer needs to make themselves one of these awesome machines!

Also, do you have the STLs for the hopper and fan mount?

Yes, I just added them to the according steps 🙂

Hey, what kind of auger did you get? Im not sure if the 17-inch Bosch auger at home depot would work for this project.

Also, whats that square and 4 circles on the left of that picture? Is it washers? Im not sure what the square is. What is it for?

The auger is an old 17 inch long by 3/4 wide auger bit that I had laying around my garage. Any auger should work as long as it fits nicely in the steel pipe and is long enough to exit the pipe and be connected to the motor. Keep in mind that if its diameter is too small then pressure in the nozzle will not be built up and extruding will be slow or not even work at all. I recommend while at home depot to go grab the pipe then explore your options of augers and see which one fits best. Also, the circles are just 4 washers that i needed as spacers for a bracket I used to help keep the auger up, you can see this bracket in the top picture 🙂 And the square is the square steel piece that is connecting the two sockets to the left and right of itself in the above picture. It is the main part that connects the auger bit to the motor 🙂

for the hopper you could use a paint ball feeder and a hopper

wow, fantastic! maybe you should place some photos or maybe a video

Let your inbox help you discover our best projects, classes, and contests. Instructables will help you learn how to make anything!

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abs filament extruder for 3d printing

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Liars 3D Printing Multiple Colors with One Extruder

Good 3D printers now have multiple hot ends. You ought to be able to print in different colors or print support material. However, a lot of us dont have multiple hot ends. Turns out, you dont have to have multiple hot ends to print in multiple colors. To accomplish that you need a lot of patience and the willingness to tell bald-faced lies. Dont worry, though, youll only be lying to some computer hardware and software, so that doesnt count.

You may have seen people talk about puttinga pause between layers to switch from one color to another. That works, but it limits your options. For example, if you want to put some colored text on a different colored background, you have to either have the text poke out, or it has to be under the background. It cant be flush if you only have a single extruder and hot end. My method is a lot more trouble, but it can generate good results.

Keep in mind, with hobby-grade printers, multiple color printing has a lot of problems even if you do have multiple extruders. This isnt a panacea. But you can get results on par with a similar printer that has multiple heads.

Here are a few pictures of test prints that use this technique. AMonoprice Mini printerwith the stock extruder and hot end created them using different PLA filament. On the left is a test cube, with a color spot in the middle of the layers (as well as some spots on the top surface you cant see). To the right is a plate with my call sign in a contrasting color. It is hard to tell in the picture, of course, but there is one surface. The text is at the same height as the yellow surface.

I didnt spend a lot of time making these prints since I was more focused on perfecting the methodology. The layer heights arent very fine, the infill is sparse, and the print speed was fast. However, you could invest time into making better-looking prints. You can also use the usual techniques that you use with a real multi-extrusion printer (such as priming towers, ooze shields, etc.).

As I mentioned, it is old hat to stop the printer between two layers and switch filament out at that point. Usually, youll manually edit your G-code or usea simple applicationorplugin. Weve even seen people whojust time it. I wanted a different approach that didnt limit me to one color per layer.

The trick is to lie. Any slicing software that supports multiple extrusion has a way for you to tell it how many extruders you have. I use Slic3r and Repetier Host. In Slic3ers printer settings, theres an entry for Capabilities/Extruders. I simply told it than I had three extruders (you can tell it more or less, but three seemed to be a good number; you can always change it later). I then made the same change in Repetiers printer settings. If you really had multiple heads, youd need to tell the program how far apart they are and other details. But since ours are just pretend, we can leave the offsets at zero and dont really need to include any other information.

Of course, that isnt all you need to do. I also added to the Custom G-code setting, also under printer settings in Slic3r. In particular, I added this custom piece of code for a tool change:

M83 ; turn on relative movement for extruder G1 E-5.000000 F6000 ; retract filament 5mm G1 X0.000000 Y0.000000 F9000 ; home X and Y axis leave Z at current height G91 ; note: For Marlin this make E and XYZ relative; for some it just makes XYZ G1 Z10.0 ; obviously, this limits your print height by this amount! ; Note Marlin treats relative different from others M84 E ; release extruder stepper motor from holding position @pause Change Filament for [next_extruder] and set [temperature_[next_extruder]] degrees ; pause print! G90 ; back to absolute G1 X0.000000 Y0.000000 F9000 ; upon resume, rehome X/Y in case position was bumped out G91 ; bring Z back G1 Z-10.0 G90 ; and back to absolute G1 E0 F6000 ; reset extruder, ready to push out plastic again G1 F9000 M82 ; set extruder movement back to absolute ready for next layer

You may want to vary this code a little andof courseyou can omit the comments (the semicolons and everything after them). The basic idea is to pull the filament up to reduce oozing, move to location 0,0 and then use @pause to make Repetier stop and prompt. You can now change the filament out. You could, presumably change temperatures if you wanted to (I didnt need to). If you are trying to get clean colors, you have to purge the nozzle (that is, run the extruder until the new color shows up). If you want an artistic fade, you could skip that steptotally up to you.

When you exit the pause, the script puts everything back the way it was and the G-code continues with the print. You will get some bad extruder errors as the G-code tries to switch extruders, butat least on my machineit doesnt hurt anything.

By the way, it was tempting to try to move everything relative so that the script could put the head back in the right position. However, my printer doesnt police going out of bounds, so that wasnt really practical. On the other hand, Slic3r assumes you might have moved things around so after the tool change, the first thing it does is moves back to the known position. However, it would have been nice to line up on the old position in the XY plane and then bring the Z axis down. As it is, if you have a little too much extrusion, you could drag the head over your print. However, if your layer heights are accurate, you shouldnt have that problem.

Theres no free lunch. The slicing software minimizes tool changes, but you still get tired of pulling filament in and out. Printing a 400 layer octopus with two colors is probably beyond everyones patience level. You really want as many layers as possible to be a solid color, just to save wear and tear on your hands and your patience.

You also need to plan your models so that there is sufficient volume of each color to show up. Thats true even with a multiple head machine, though. For example, on the callsign plate, if the callsign were a single layer of purple, it wouldnt show up well at the 80 to 100 microns I usually use for printing. Also putting light colors on dark colors takes more volume. You will have better results with large things. You probably are not going to get the callsign  down to a four-point text size. Again, thats true even if you had mutliple extruders with the same nozzle and layer sizes.

There are a few ways you can represent a multiple color model. The most common is to simply have a separate STL file for each extruder. Even though I only have one extruder, to make good on my lie, I need separate STL files, too.

Next time Ill show you how I created those models and how to load them (or any multi-extruder STL files) into Repetier Host. It is a lot of work. But if it makes the difference between getting the job done and having to send it out, maybe its worth it. Meanwhile, you candownload the STL and the source files, if you want to experiment.

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Liars 3D Printing: Multiple Colors with One Extruder

People are already using Y adapters and modifying g-code intended for multiple extruders.

You still need a wipe tower when changing, of course, but you use a bowden setup with a Y immediately before the hot end, and dual extruders.

G-Code retracts current filament back past the Y, then pushes the new filament out to the hot end.

It works pretty well, is a very simple setup even for a printer like the Monoprice Select Mini because you dont need to add carriage weight/mount a new hot end, and account for offset for multiple hot ends, you just need a second extruder *somewhere* to drive the second filament.

It works reasonably well, though you do need to have a tower being built where you can purge the remaining melt in the hot end to ensure a nice color change and no blobbing on startup.

Yep, this is exactly how the guys at Prusa implemented it. Its a simple and clever system. I will try something similar on my printer for sure looking forward to 2 color prints.

I am not a big fan of manual filament change to change it once or twice per print, OK. But to change it twice every layer (and still have spills from the first non-retracted filament), no, thanks.

The simplicity is what appeals to me. Ive got a mini myself, building a d-bot, and the d-bot will have a two-color setup this way.

Its more practical than a dual hot end setup, though it does entail dealing with the limitations (and advantages, to be fair) of a bowden setup. Whats more, the software support already exists, as its fundamentally the same as running a dual hot end setup (which also uses two extruders).

Its the best implementation for multicolor/multimaterial printing Ive seen to date, and the simplicity is a big part of why.

Could the Prusa 4 filament system be retrofit to the Mini or other single extruder printers?

Yeah there have been plenty of 2 and 3 head hot ends. But if you have a single extruder/hot end, I wanted to illustrate how you CAN do actual multicolor if you are willing to trade off your time and effort. Not for everyone, but not really the same as installing new extruders and an adapter or mixing hot end.

Thats the point of this, though its a middle ground. You DO need another drive, but NOT another head/hot end. So, its not a trivial retrofit, no, but it allows multicolor printing without manually changing filament every layer which would be absurdly time consuming.

Installing multiple hot ends is way more complicated as you still need multiple drives, but you also impact the speed you can print at an accuracy by increasing the mass youre moving.

Manually changing filament is possible, but Having tried it once, I can sincerely say that its a horrible process fraught with peril.

Adding an extruder and a Y adapter on your hot end is a much better way to get into multicolor/multimaterial printing imho.

Dont get me wrong, Im not faulting the article here. Its good stuff, and the gcode script is gold, just saying that taking this one step further is not very hard and makes printing a 400 layer multicolor print a breeze.

Brought it up mostly because the Y adapter/dual extruder/single head setup is a fairly newish approach and not as well known as muktihead setups.

Well not to knock Josef who has done so much for the community, but E3D had the Cyclops out years ago which is 2 in and 1 out. The Diamond hot end ( has been around awhile too. What I see lacking is mainstream slicing support (or maybe documentation of; I know Slic3r has a mysterious checkbox to tell it that you only have one real hotend, but I dont know how that affects its output) or at least examples of tool change scripts (like this one) for those heads.

Dont get me wrong. Im not suggesting that manually changing filament is the best way. Im saying it can be done if you are hard up enough to do some spot color and you dont have a machine that will do it. I have seen a lot of discussion about changing color per layer, but it surprised me Id never seen this trick before because it seems obvious, though tedious. Maybe just no one has the patience to do it 😉

Yeah; in all honestly I wasnt aware Josef had added it to the Prusa project at all, Ive only seen it actually done in the Mini and DBot communities (this is likely simply a factor of where I tend to hang out, mind you).

Its still in its infancy, though, there certainly isnt any mainstream slicer support.

Manual filament changing has been a thing for a long time, though, but as you said nobody really has the patience for it the recommendation is usually a simple pause+manual change+resume, but its something people try once and never do again because its a nightmare 🙂

The only time its really not Id rather poke my eyes out is when youre looking at just changing from one filament to another once, but two colors per layer with manual changing. *shudder* Even with my mini, I run a .0875 layer height; a 1cm high two color print would involve ~120 filament changes. Gross 🙁

I have seen lots of manual filament changing done on layer height or filament length or time but that gives a crude result. Josefs web app to do a manual switch at layer height was what got me thinking about this in the first place.

The e3d diamond is a heavy old chunk of metal (brass) when you get it all assembled though, I bought one and was going to fit it to my printrbot simple metal and run 3 bowden extruders but it just felt too heavy, so Ive gone to a much lighter dual kraken style nozzle bolted the side of the head fed by two bowden tubes and kept my direct drive original.

The diamond is getting used in a qc30 holder to turn my bridgeport cnc into a large format 3d printer for those rare occasions I need to print something bigger than my printrbot can handle so not all is lost

Theres a diamond group on facebook dedicated to working through multi colour firmware/printing issues. Probably loads of forums too..

This sounds a lot easier than my idea to have a station that the head parks under, which retracts the filament, then moves the head to another station and extrudes new filament into the extruder, just like changing it by hand with your fingers.

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