How to 3D Print with Flexible Filaments – Gyrobot Ltd – CAD Design and 3D Printing

The saying, You cannot push on a rope remains as apt as ever when it comes to 3D printing with flexible filaments. Most printers will have some form of success straight out of the box with flexible filaments, but dont be greedy to begin with, turn the printing speed right down. Within this article I will try to explain as best as I can the problems, pitfalls to avoid and how to achieve success with pushing on a rope to achieve good print quality at acceptable speeds, in this case substituting the rope for flexible and elastic filaments for 3D printing such asFilaflex.

A flexible filament is generally a Polyurethane or Co-Polyester (not exclusively) Thermoplastic Elastomer (TPE) with a complex mix of additives/colourants to aid the 3D printing process. With good elastic properties and high co-efficient of friction means 3D printed designs in this filament expand the design possibilities. Effectively it is a soft stretchy grippy material.

I know the feeling, you have just took delivery of your first reel of flexible filament, you load it into the printer, if you get as far as heating up the hot-end and actually getting to press the print button, then you have done well. My first time, the filament didnt even feed down into the hot-end successfully but came out of the side of the extruder from the hobbed shaft area making the usual spaghetti mess. I thought there would be a problem, because the first item on my hit list was a previously noted gap between the hobbed shaft and the entry into the hot end is a whopping 10mm.

Problem 1 – Unconstrained Filament

If a gap exists between the extruder drive gear (or hobbed shaft) and the entry hole of the hot end, then the filament can buckle and once the buckling process has started then its too late and the filament will find a way out of the extruder sideways. If left unattended for a significant time, a flexible birds nest will have entombed your printer probably jamming a few axes motors in the process, which is not a wise move.

Extruder ProblemThis gap needs to be closed up so the filament is constrained all the way into the hot end and cannot collapse sideways. You can see an example of this in the image above.

There are several ways to achieve this and your individual extruder may vary and it may/may not be possible to achieve on some printers.

1. Retrofit an extra support insert into the extruder.

Second filament guide for Jigsaw extruder

There are many of these upgrades including several I have designed myself as part ofGyrobots Extruder Week:

Mk8 Spring loaded Drive Block Replicator 1 / Duplicator 4 / FlashForge / CTC

Mk8 Spring loaded Drive Block Replicator 1 / Duplicator 4 / FlashForge / CTC

3. Purchase an off the shelf extruder and hot end which is flexible filament compatible, such as theRecreusExtruder which has achieved flexible printing speeds of 120mm/s (Due Nov 2014):

Excessive filament friction is the enemy for flexible printing, it can cause more pressure on the drive gear consequently more filament feed problems can happen as a result. Both excessive friction before and after the drive gear can result in issues.Solution 2

If possible, feed the flexible filament directly into the Extruder, without a using a feed tube. Ideally from above at a height of 12 or more from the printer, the higher the better. This will provide an unrestricted path, with gravity on your side. If you have to use a feed tube, make sure it is PTFE (low friction) rather than Silicon, fuel line or pneumatic pipe etc. Avoid any sharp turns or kinks in the tube, and allow the filament to enter the tube as straight as possible. It is unfortunate that that latest generation of some popular printers have the most convoluted path you could probably imagine.

Keep this length as short as possible to the hot end. Pushing a flexible filament into a hot end will result in compression and its diameter will increase as a result. Couple this with the thermal expansion of the filament inside the hot end and the pressure increases, miss feeds are the result. A Bowden style extruder are most problematic for this reason. I would suggest mounting the drive extruder above the printer rather than off to the side or rear, gravity will help in this case. Also for Bowden, as above, use a PTFE feed tube, and is also best with a 3mm diameter filament for fasted printing speeds, 1.75mm will work, again much slower though.

Insert a PTFE liner into the hot end barrel to reduce the thermal expansion problem :

The PTFE liner, reduces friction and acts a thermal break to insulate the filament until it enters the hot-end so the diameter doesnt expand too early:

Drilling out a hot-end barrel, lathe not necessary, a standard hand drill can be used instead

In the following photos, you can even see that the PTFE liner extends all the way up to the drive gear. This is the solution for anOrca 0.43andmy makeof JackTsORCA 0.43 ExtruderderivateonThingiverse

PTFE Tube Extending up to the Drive Gear

Filament Constrained Before Drive Gear too (Easier Filament Swapping)

WARNING : The maximum printing temperature for PTFE lined hot-end is about 265deg C

The last issue that we will address is a resulting property of fixing the previous two issues. If we have now have constrained filament and have reduced the friction, we can now theoretically feed filament into the hot end at a much faster feed-rate. However if the pressure builds up too much in the hot end then this can increase the torque on the motor and the filament can still buckle or compress sufficiently that the enlarged diameter of the compressed filament adds more friction to the side walls of the PTFE lined barrel, this again increases the pressure further and the downward spiral begins.

I have tried nozzles 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm and 1mm and the 1mm nozzle certainly throws out the filament as you would expect, and you can ramp the speed up. A 1mm nozzle can actually still print pretty good quality prints, because the Z layer height can still be set low, say 0.3mm. The extrudate will be squashed flatter and you will loose detail on some complicated perimeters, but the Z resolution will still be good. A 0.4mm nozzle is a good compromise for XY quality and speed.

Cool the barrel. The smaller the melt zone and the closest it is to the nozzle the better. A fan blowing on the upper part of the barrel and over the general extruder area will keep this cool and help reduce any premature softening of the filament as it travels down the barrel. If the filament gets soft too soon then it can buckle easier and expand to grip the side walls of the PTFE liner.

Increase the temperature. The hotter the

runnier the extrudate becomes therefore the flow is easier. 240deg is a common ceiling for this material before you may start noticing a bit of boiling

. If the filament starts to boil, the print will have a foamy look about it, which can actually still look quite good. Because the thermodynamics of

heater/thermistor hot-end combos are so different, it is difficult to tell you what exact temperature to print at. Try turning up the temperature and do some test prints, once you start noticing the material boiling, then back off

For me, my slicer of choice isCraftware by Craftunique. It seems to print flexible filament with the default settings, I just had to set the nozzle size (strangely called extrusion width) to my default 0.4 and reduce the speed accordingly, I also set the retract length to 4mm. It also has a great customisable support facility, which consists of pillars which can be added/removed/resized/auto generated before slicing, even placed on angles branching out like a tree. The support is easily removable, even with flexible filaments such as this Filaflex thumb below. It has super fast slicing, great graphics and is free, check it out :CraftWare by CraftUniqueHowever, here are some good starting profiles using Filaflex forCuraorSlic3r.

If you are building your own printer or manufacturing printers, then consider the Recreus Extruder and Hotend combo which is due out at beginning of November 2014, Its a plug and play approach with many mounting holes on all sides so it is very adaptable. You will then be able to print with PLA, Filaflex and ABS at high speeds.

I would like to take this opportunity to thankRecreusfor the use of some images to help me explain the problems and solutions.

There are also many solutions onThingiversefor you to print off your own upgrade. Maybe its just a case of tweaking your hot end or slicer settings.

I will leave you with a gallery of my prints which are either printed fully in Filaflex or incorporate Filaflex within their design.7 Comments6/1/2016 10:56:01 am

Hi Minni,Please fill in the contact form so I can get your email address then you will be able to email me a photo once weve established contact.Steve.

Hi Steve,Nice introduction! Your approach for direct extruder is definitively the best, but it has the disadvantage of a heavier (and thus less-fast-movable) printhead. For those who want a compromise; have a look at this approach:

CAD design engineer, builder and tinkerer.

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DIY Filament Extruder

We all know that filament is the most important part of 3d printing… And we also know that these are neither cheap nor easily accessible… So I decided to make my own homemade filament extruder. After some research on internet, I decided to use this simple design which is the core of many commercial filastruders. I prepared a simple CAD model for you to conceptualize the design easily. All these parts are easily found at every DIYers parts bin. Only serious design I made is the steel barrel body which is made by one of my friends who has a lathe. As can be understood, plastic pellets (or small cut plastic) is loaded from the upper cone and the screw carries them to the front where they are being melt and forced out of a brass nozzle (a natural gas or propane nozzle mainly) to form a filament. According to my calculations system can be driven with a powerful dc gearmotor or a big stepper like the one in the pic (nema23). Even a household drill can drive the system for few hrs… I designed the system to make 1.75mm filament (which is accordance with myRepRap 3D printer) and found nozzles that can do the job. the radius of output filament can be monitored by a sensor for accuracy but I do not think I will need that as long as the shaft is driven at constant speed… As for the heating control, I decided to use the same ceramic 12v heaters and 100k thermistors used in reprap printer extruders (actually there will be more than one on the front end around nozzle). There are simpler and cheaper solutions for heat control, such as constant temp PTC thermostats but as the name implies these are made to keep the heating at a predefined constant temp. Actually I want to make tests for different types of plastics ( including waste plastics such as PE bottles) that is why I decided to have Arduino controlled heater&thermistor combination under PID control because various plastics will need different melting temps…

– Metal body in which the screw mechanism will work..

– Gearmotor (I am using scrap hand drill but windshield motor will do better)…

– IRLZ44 Mosfet (any powerful logic mosfet will do the job)

– 16×2 LCD (optional to monitor heating values)

– some construction skills and some coding…

I entered this post into the 3D Printer contest, so if you think its awesome, or it helps you , vote for it! 🙂

Please be positive and constructive.

I seem to be having an issue with the code, not exactly sure what it is but the temperature seems to be really unstable. I checked the thermistor etc and they are all good. Lower temperatures there seem to be no issues however 100 deg C + I get huge spikes in the temperature, where the sensor is reporting correctly but for instance if the analogread returns 1012 I can get a a temperature reported of 230 to 260 odd degrees.

In addition if I have run the temperature at 240 degrees I get spikes reporting of 300 degrees reported. then if i turn the temperature back down to say 40 degrees every 10 to 20 cycles the pin controlling the heater triggers resulting in the head not cooling back down.

i made it . but change i2c lib.and change lcd.init() to lcd.beging(). its worked .

Another question is LCD wiring. According to a schematics, you use just 4 wires to connect LCD. I have JHD 162A 16×2 LCD and it usually requires much more wires to connect.

Already got it but will do without I2C. Already done PID controller, but one serious issue left. Used all the items in your list, but heater doesnt heat much. When I connect it to PSU 12v directly, it heats perfect, just like in 3D printer hotend. But when connecting by your diagram via IRLZ44 mosfet and 10k pot, its temperature is less than 100 degreas, since I can touch it for a few seconds. Any suggestions?

Strange…. I did not have that issue… are you sure you are using 2 heater cartridges?… mine works flawlessly… I am also using 12v PSU… it easily reaches 200 degrees in less than 5 min and later I checked up to 280 degrees…

My cartridges are burried in front of the body 2,5cm inside…

Sketch is unworkable. Tried several times, checked all connection – it doesnt work the way youve described.

It works for me… I am almost sure that you have a wrong wiring… especially about the mosfet…. you should already know that PID algorithm cannot work properly with a relay.. 🙂

i try to know, how to download the PDF document?

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The Ewe 3D Printer Filament Extruder

Italy-based Ewe Industries has developed a personal filament extruder.

Weve checked out several similar devices, but none have the incredible industrial design as the Ewe Filament Extruder. At first glance, this machine appears to be a peculiar coffee machine you might find in your twenty-first century kitchen. But no, its actually a 3D printer filament maker.

Like other such devices, the Ewe accepts plastic pellets or ground up shards in its 500g hopper at the top. A control panel allows precise settings for temperature and flow rates, which you can adjust to match the plastic type and desired filament specifications. An integrated spool accepts the extruded filament.

Were quite happy to see the integrated spooler, since most other filament extruders somehow dont see this as a necessary feature – and end up producing spaghetti-like blobs of filament.

The Ewe Extruder is available in several combinations:

A kit that contains the essential mechanicals, but not the fancy exterior case for €330 (USD$410)

An assembled version without the case for €490 (USD$615)

A kit with all parts required to add the case for €170 (USD$212)

A Deluxe version that is both assembled, including case, for €690 (USD$865)

It appears that you can acquire a Deluxe extruder for as low as €500 (USD$625) if youre willing to put the whole thing together yourself, which likely isnt difficult, given the complexity of filament extruders.

We have one concern, and that is the quality of the resulting filament. Many have tried and few have succeeded in producing quality filament with desktop devices. Wevecovered this topic previously, but the bottom line is that quality filament from industry today requires incredibly precise cooling, usually provided by massive water tanks at just the right temperature. Manufacturers often use precision laser measurement devices, such as the unit above at ColorFabb, to ensure the filament is accurately produced.

These features simply cannot be included in a desktop device, unless someone invents a way to precisely refrigerate hot filament emerging from an extruder and include laser scanning components.

Nevertheless, the Ewe Filament Extruder is an incredibly beautiful machine.

Kerry Stevenson, aka General Fabb has been writing Fabbaloo posts since he launched the venture in 2007, with an intention to promote and grow the incredible technology of 3D printing across the world. So far, it seems to be working!

Fabbaloo is a daily online publication focusing on the 3D print and additive manufacturing industries. We provide deeper analysis of developments in current and future technologies as well as corporate matters. If theres something happening in 3D technologies, especially FDM, SLA, SLS and Stereolithography, well have an opinion about it.

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Filament Extruders

Our modern world has created a legacy, of sorts, but its not one we should be proud to call our own. Its the legacy of creating a useful substance which has painful and environmentally…

about Making A Legacy 3D Printer Filament From Recycled Plastic

Home Filament Extrusion In A User-Friendly Package Strooder on Kickstarter

Omni Dynamics, a British startup, is introducing what they call Strooder, the first truly consumer oriented filament extruder for 3D printers.

about Home Filament Extrusion In A User-Friendly Package Strooder on Kickstarter

Recycling Milk Jugs into 3D Printer Filament Saves Money and the Environment

Recycling your old milk jugs into 3D printer filament can save as much as 99 cents on the dollar and a little bit of the environment at the same time, according to a study by

Tyler McNaney of Vermonts Filabot has announced the availability of the Filabot Wee. Like the original Filabot funded on Kickstarter at the beginning of 2012, the Filabot Wee is a thermoplastic filament extruder a device that…

Mark Dill of ExtrusionBot has the sort of problem all entrepreneurs lust after serious buzz surrounding his product. His original Kickstarter campaign, which began with the…

The ExtrusionBot has quickly surpassed its humble Kickstarter goal of $10,000. It is touted as the worlds fastest home built automatic filament extrusion Bot, able to spit out ABS and PLA…

about ExtrusionBot Exceeds Funding Goal on Kickstarter

3D Printer World showcases commercial, professional and personal 3D printers, software solutions, service bureau offerings, imaging technology and materials used in 3D printing.

Visit ourcontact pagefor more information.

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3D Printer MK8 Direct Drive Extruder 04mm 175mm for Prusa i3

This is All Metal single head MK8 extruder. Extruder made of aluminum alloy and anodized yellow. It comes with NEMA 17 stepper, heater cartridge 12V 40W, Thermistor NTC 3950, 12V 40mm Fan, 70cm long stepper cable. Extruder uses high torque stepper motor, it should have no problem pushing filament through 0.4mm nozzle.

2 x MK7 Filament Drive Gear for 3D Printer Extruder

3D Printer Bowden Extruder with Stepper Motor TEVO Anet A8 Reprapguru Prusa i3

3D Printer Extruder 1.75mm TEVO Anet A8 Reprapguru Prusa i3 Bowden Conversion

3D Printer Lightweight Geared Extruder /w V6 Hotend and Light NEMA 17 stepper

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TheDarwinandMendelRepraps were designed to extrudePLAplastic. People have developed many ways of improving on the originalextruder. It didnt take long before people starting trying to make them extrude other pastes, includingABSand even delicious frosting: Frostruder[1]. RepRap forums: Frostruder MK2 = Granular extruder?[2].

To extrude, theCold Endforces the raw material (usually a 1.75mm or 3mmdiameter filament) into thehot end. Thefeeding filamentshould then go through theHot Endof the extruder with the heater and out of thenozzleat a reasonable speed. The extruded material falls onto the build platform (sometimes heated) and then layer by layer onto the part as it is built up.

TheCold Endis usually the bulk of the extruder. It is often the actual carriage on one axis and supports the rest of the parts. In some designs, theCold Endis split into two parts; one part does the driving of the filament that is stationary and connected to the carriage portion, of a lighter weight design for easier movement, with aflexible tube. The drive is a motor that rotates a knurled, hobbed, or toothed pinch wheel against a pressure plate or bearing with the filament forced between them. Usually, the motor is geared to the pinch wheel to increase available torque and extrusion control (smoothness). The gearing can be a 3D printed pinion and gear, stock worm wheel and gear, or a more expensive integral motor gearbox. Stepper motors are used almost universally after initial trials with DC motors did not achieve the required repeatability. Servo motors are an option, though they are not seen in the literature yet. The final function, some form of cooling, keeps theCold Endcold. With the close proximity to theHot Endand possible heated build platforms and enclosures, it is sometimes necessary to have additional passive or active cooling of the cold end parts. Heat sinks and fans are often used; water and Peltier effect cooling is also discussed. Much of this bulk is usually made from 3D printed parts and the temperature is maintained within safe limits.

TheCold Endis connected to theHot Endacross a thermal break or insulator (the Bowden tube if used is on the cold side of this thermal break). This has to be rigid and accurate enough to reliably pass the filament from one side to the other, but still prevent much of the heat transfer. The materials of choice are usually PEEK plastic with PTFE liners or PTFE with stainless steel mechanical supports or a combination of all three. A Hot End is frequently joined to the Cold End using aGroove Mountwhere the thermal break or insulator is part of the Hot End assembly and the Cold End body is provisioned with a cylindrical recess.

Many cold ends push the filament out a large hole centered between 2 small holes about 50 mm apart.(Is there a name for this de-facto standard?)Some people rigidly attach a groove mount hot end to such a cold end with themounting plateadapter and two short bolts. A few people put 2 long bolts through those holes and then put a spring around those bolts to make aspring extruder.

TheHot Endis the active part of the 3D printer that melts the filament. It allows the molten plastic to exit from the small nozzle to form a thin and tacky bead of plastic that will adhere to the material it is laid on. The first RepRap hot end was made ofbrass. Researchers have also made hot ends fromglassor aluminium. The hot end consists of a melting zone or chamber with two holes. The cold end forces the filament into the hot end — into the heating chamber of the hot end — through one hole. The molten plastic exits the heating chamber through the other hole at the tip. The hole in the tip (nozzle) has a diameter of between 0.3mm and 1.0mm with typical size of 0.5mm with present generation extruders. Outside the tip of the barrel is a heating means, either a wire element or a standard wire wound resistor. The heat required is of the order of 20W with typical temperatures around 150 to 250 degrees Centigrade. For feedback control of the nozzle temperature, a thermistor is usually attached close to the nozzle, though a thermocouple may serve with suitable control hardware. High temperaturematerialsare needed here. These include metals, cements and glues, glass and mineral fibre materials,PEEKPTFEandKapton tape.

The ways extruders are mounted on the rest of the machine have evolved over time into informal mounting standards. These informal standards include theVertical X Axis Standard, theQuick-fit extruder mount, theOpenXmount, etc. Such de-facto standards allows new extruder designs to be tested on existing printer frames, and new printer frame designs to use existing extruders.(Does the greg-adapter.scad adapter in thePrusa i3 Build Manuallet me mount an OpenX extruder on a Vertical X Axis machine?)

Add extruders to this extruders category by addingtagextrudersanywhere on the wiki page about that extruder (typically in the categories section of thedevelopmenttemplate). Also add the appropriate sub-category(s) –tagCold EndortagHot End‎ortagPaste Extrudersor etc. — in the same section of that wiki page.

Can we come up with an idealized model of what *should* happen in the extruder independent of how it is implemented?RepRap forums: What would be the ideal (theoretical) hotend/extruder combo?

This category has the following 12 subcategories, out of 12 total.

The following 183 pages are in this category, out of 183 total.

BIQ Extruder Peek clamp replacement


Extruder Pluggable Wiring Convention

Genealogy / Archeology of the Gregs Wades Geared Extruder

How to Create a Heat Tip From Scratch

Mattroberts Compact Geared Extruder

RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip

Thermoplast Extruder Version 2 Hints

Unique-Prototyping Geared Stepper Extruder

This page was last modified on 6 September 2015, at 23:14.

Content is available underGNU Free Documentation License 1.2.

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Hot End Design on 3D Printer Extruder

3D Printer Extruder Hot End Close Up

So, this is an introduction to my latest 3d printer extruder system with a detailed view of the Hot End, Cold End and Nozzle. There are plenty of pictures and a detailed illustration that shows details about the 3d printer extruder system Im currently using. I explain some of the pros and cons, and explain why the latest extruder system Im using works.

Im still using a Twin Drive Extruder System I developed to push the 1.75mmPolylactic acid(PLA) filament into, what used to be, a very stubborn nozzle. However, forcing the filament into the nozzle was not the answer and some investigation work needed to be done to make the system work better. A new Hot End is purchased and after much tweaking, the extruder set-up is now working as well as it can be and I should be able to revert back to the single filament driveextruder upgrade, freeing up a stepper motor. Ive got a new extruder stepper motor drive gear coming from the US which should provide improved grip on the filament giving more pushing power with a single stepper motor.

Airtrippers 3D Printer Twin Drive Extruder

The Hot End has caused the most frustrations and headaches during the 3d printer ownership, and at first, I was not sure if the Hot End was at fault or the fault was with some dodgy PLA filament. It seemed that some types of PLA filament extruded better than others, but I still had performance issues with them all. Rather than build a collection of PLA filament that failed to extrude, I decided to develop a set-up that was less fussy about extruding different PLA filament types.

After a number of different extruder mash-ups with some endless tweaking and putting new bits together, I finally have a 3d printer extruder system that works. Through tweaking, the Hot End part of the extruder has increased in sophistication due to having better nozzle heat control and active cold end cooling. This has allowed for better filament management during its journey through the 3D printer extruder system that is fitted to theSumpod 3D Printer.

A slightly altered version of Mendel-Parts V9

My latest Hot End is a derivative of the Mendel Parts V9. The parts kit I got, shipped from Make Mendel in India, was supposed to be a Mendel Parts V9 copy, but there was an error in the main Peek housing that allowed the tubes to connect together without a thermal barrier between them, this meant the kit could not be used without a fix or part swap. Instead of returning the Hot End kit, I decided to use the parts to build my own derivative version.

The basic operation of the extruder system is to feed the filament, using a stepper motor drive gear, into the Hot End melt chamber to extrude melted plastic out of the nozzle tip. In order to achieve good extrusion performance for best 3d print quality, Some conditions in the 3d printer extruder system need to be controlled.

The Hot End has two chambers ( M6 threaded tubes), one melt chamber and one cold end chamber. The chambers are separated by a thermal barrier so that each chamber can be controlled to maintain separate temperature targets. The melt chamber is heated to the point where it melts the filament to a level that can be extruded with minimum pressure without the plastic burning. The cold end chamber, to avoid jamming, prevents the softening and swelling of the filament. A fan and heat sink is attached to the cold end chamber to keep the heat off the filament until the filament reaches the melt chamber. If the filament softens in the cold end chamber the filament will swell and become jammed under pressure from the extruder stepper motor drive gear.

Due to PLAs relatively low glass transition temperature, the heat sink cooling fan needs to be switched on during 3d printing. Without the fan, the cold end becomes very hot which could lead to filament jamming. The Hot End is capable of extruding 1.75mm PLA at temperatures up to 230 degrees C without changing the glass transition of the plastic in the cold end.

3D Printer Nozzle Tube Parts with PTFE Tube Seperator

1.75mm PLA filament can be extruded at temperatures as high as 230 degrees C.

The Hot End reaches the target temperature easily because heat transfer to the cold end is kept low by the PTFE thermal barrier.

Filament swelling, causing extruder jamming, is prevented by using cold end heat sink and fan.

M6 threaded cold end chamber allows for easy attachment to heat sink.

The Hot End is difficult to assemble and has a lot of parts.

The PTFE thermal barrier is difficult to get right because it deforms very easily, under pressure, when the M6 threaded tubes are screwed against it.

The PTFE thermal barrier needs to be drilled on each assembly to align with the M6 threaded tubes. This causes extra wear on the inside of the tubes.

The cooling fan adds extra noise to the 3d printer.

If Id have got this Hot End from Mendel Parts instead of Make Mendel, Im sure I would have had a few less problems. However, Make Mendel was the only company that had the parts and could deliver quickly.

1.75mm PLA is probably the most challenging Filament to extrude due to its relatively low glass transition temperature and of course being really thin as well. The Mendel Parts V9 Hot End derivative I created works well with this filament, and Im sure Mendel Parts V9 original does work just as well if set up correctly. Anyway, working with a faulty Hot End has been very educational and has made me a bit wiser for my next purchase.

As it happens, I have a new Hot End on backorder, a Makerbot MK7/8 and Makergear Plastruder derivetive, so looking forword to getting that in the near future.

3D Printer Bowden Cable Extruder System

3D Printer Extruder Cold End with Fan Cooler

3D Printer Extruder Hot End Close Up

Old 3D Printer Extruder Nozzle with PTFE Tube Inner Lining.

Old 3D Printer Extruder Nozzle with Fan on SS Block Insulator

More Hot End posts to follow as experiments continue, also a new belt driven gear stepper motor extruder is coming up.

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onMarlin Firmware v1, Basic Configuration Set-up Guide

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3D Printing F

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Valentines day is approaching fast. If you are still looking for a last-minute, yet creative gift, dont despair! We might just have the solution for you: a 3D printable Valentines gift in the form of a heart-shaped bookmark.

Looking for a quick and easy way to store your 3D printer filament, without any DIY?

Then you have come to the right place!

This article will give you easy instructions on how to effectively store your 3D printing filament and shield it from degradation due to ambient air humidity. All the items can be bought from Amazon or in retail shops and there is no Do-it-yourself action involved.

As the month is drawing to a close, it is time to look at the best 3D printing content published in August. As usual there is quite some stuff to sift through, here is what caught my eye.

We pride ourselves on this blog not being a 3D printing news type of blog. We feel that a lot of news sites fuel the hype and over-inflated expectations around 3D printing while often blurring the lines between consumer and industrial 3D printing.

What type of 3D printing file format do you use when you export your 3D model from the CAD software you work in? There is a multitude of file formats that 3D printing supports. However, the most popular are .STL and .OBJ files. These file formats are supported by most printing software and 3D printers.

One of our most frequently asked questions here on the blog is: what is the ideal beginner 3D printer? While there will probably never be a single right answer to this question we try our best by reviewing printers that look like they have the potential to be great beginner machines.

I am sure that you have been there: you owned a product or device that you ended up throwing away since some small, insignificant looking plastic part had broken. You took your gadget to the shop for repair only to be told that it is cheaper to buy a new one rather than having it repaired. ​Anybody remotely environmentally conscious will cringe at this point: you have to throw away an item of which 99% of the parts still work but that tiny broken part that you cant replace forces you to dispose of the gadget.

A new book that has hit the bookshelves caught our attention:The Zombie Apocalypse Guide to 3D Printingby Clifford Smyth. Cliff is a guest writer here on the blog and his first bookFunctional Design for 3D Printinghas proven to be very popular with our readers and continues to be a best seller among the books that we recommend.

In case you havent heard of Cliff Smyth before, he is an author specialized in teaching you how to use your 3D printer as a tool to print useful things. I highly recommend that you check out his contributions on the topics ofInfill & Strengthand.

Why would anyone want to develop a new 3D printer if there are already hundreds of machines out there? I ask myself that question every time I see yet another 3D printer being launched on a crowd-funding platform or elsewhere.

Just having tested theTripodmaker delta 3D printer, I sat down for a chat with Pieter-Jan Vandendriessche to find out more about why he decided that there was space in the market for a new deltabot.

Today we are celebrating a first here on the blog: while we have reviewed several 3D printers before, the Tripomaker review is our very first delta 3D printer review. Ever since I started visiting 3D printing fairs a few years ago, I have been intrigued by delta 3D printers. Their architecture looks exotic and they clearly still constitute a minority in the desktop 3D printing market.

What Material Should I Use For 3D Printing?

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3d printer filament extruder machine

Zhangjiagang S&K Machinery Co., Ltd.

The supplier supports Trade Assurance A free service that protects your orders from payment to delivery.

3d printer filament extruder machine

1 Set/Sets for 3D raw material extruder machine:one set per month

10 Set/Sets per Month for 3D raw material extruder machine:ten set per month

Jiangsu, China (Mainland), Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

S&K, FRIEND 3D filament production line

380v/220v/415v according to your requirements, 380V,50HZ(can be customized)

Engineers available to service machinery overseas

for 3D raw material extruder machine:1Standard wooden box 2film wrapped.

30 working days after receive deposite

3d printer filament extruder machine

2.Imported high quality raw materials

(1) We use high quality original material. No bubbles appear when printing. This is the key to print good quality product.

(2) We have more than 30 colors is stock: red,orange,yellow,green,grey,gold,silver,blue,purple,pink,brown,black,white and transparent etc.

(5) Our filaments are compatiable with all of the desk 3D printers.

PLA color: white,black,pink,grey,brown,gold,silver,solid red,solid blue,solid green,solid yellow,

solid orange,solid purple,transparent red,transparent blue,transparent green,transparent yellow,

transparent orange,transparent purpleetc.

abs filament extruder for 3d printing as its name is mainly used for extruding ABS/PLA filament.This machine can also process all kinds of plastic materialssuch as soft/hard propene Polymer (PP) and polystyrene(PE) coordinated with the appropriate auxiliary machine. Our factory can process the whole line to produce accurate ABS/PLA filament which includes: Feeder, extruder, mould, water tank, laser measuring machine, haul off machine and winding machine. Its max capability can reach 15kg/h.

The machine will be ready in 25-30 days receiving deposit. We normally accept payment terms like 30% in advance as deposit, 70% T/T before delivery.

We will invite customers to check the machine before shipment. And if the customer requests us to guide installment and test running in his factory, we will send our engineer. And the customer should pay for engineers ticket, visa, room and board, $80 per day for one people as allowance.

We normally guarantee machine quality for one year to key components of the machines, if key components of machine are broken for technical reason, we will replace it with new one free. (The customer should return broken components).

Zhangjiagang Suke Machinery Co., Ltd. is a manufacturer of Plastic machines with well-equipped testing equipment and strong technical force.

With a wide range, good quality, reasonable prices and stylish designs, our products are extensively used in machinery and other industries.

Our products are widely recognized and trusted by users and can meet continuously developing economic and social needs.

We welcome new and old customers from all walks of life to contact us for future business relationships and achieving mutual success!

Transaction History of the Supplier

conducted via m. If you require further details regarding the transaction data, please contact the supplier directly.

3d printer filament extruder machine

The supplier supports Trade Assurance A free service that protects your orders from payment to delivery. Site:InternationalEspañolPortugusDeutschFrançaisItalianoहिंदीP한국어اللغة العربيةภาษาไทยTrkNederlandstiếng ViệtIndonesianעברית

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3D Printer Filament Extruder Line Abs Extrusion Machine Line

The suppliers transactions conducted via in the past 6 months.

The supplier supports Trade Assurance A free service that protects your orders from payment to delivery.

3D Printer Filament Extruder Line Abs Extrusion Machine Line

Engineers available to service machinery overseas

The normal package is wooden box(Size: L*W*H). If export to export countries,the wooden box will be fumigated.If container is too tighter,we will use PE film for packing or pack it according to customers special request.

Harden is well established in design and building extrusion lines for polymer processing since 2006. The company has always been leading the industry in developing precision small extrusion lines and laboratory extrusion equipment. As FDM technologies is being becoming popular, Harden set up a subsidiary specialized in supplying 3D printing filament production lines.

Product Application-3D Printer Filament Extrusion Line

Our 3D printer filament production lines are available in three functionality options and a desk-top version is also available for small lab scale production and testing.

HARDEN is dedicated to provide the best small extrusion lines and service for you from China. Our extruders are famous for its melt quality, pressure stability, zero down time, easy operation, and short start-up time. With these features, our customers get an advantage of high production rate, high product precision, and very low rate in material waste.

Features of 3D Printer Filament Extrusion Line

1 Using SIEMENS touch operation, real-time display of the running state, alarm information and system parameters

2 PID temperature control, the accuracy up to 1

3 Pressure closed loop control is used to improve the stability of the extrusion pressure and the uniformity of the 3D printer filament

4 The traction unit using imported servo motor drive and is composed of the closed-loop control system with diameter measuring instrument, which can quickly respond to the change of the speed of the extruder, so as to achieve the requirement of the accuracy

5 The use of special winding tension transducer, to ensure the tension balance, rolling smooth and tidy, to avoid the phenomenon of knot

6Remote monitoring can be achieved for you to build an intelligent automatic to provide convenient conditions

1) High precision processing, stable extrusion

2) Heating using imported thermocouple. PID control, temperature accuracy up to 1

1) Diameter measuring instrument, real-time feedback wire diameter size, composing a closed loop control with traction motor, to ensure the stability of filament diameter, accuracy can reach 0.01MM.

2) Imported servo motor, speed control precision and good stability, low speed operation and high speed operation can maintain good torque characteristics

1) SIEMENS controller and touch screen supporting the use of the system stability, safety circuit protection, press the emergency stop button, equipment emergency shutdown, to protect the personal safety

2) With simple operation, real=time operation state display, alarm information display

3) Display including curve, extrusion pressure curve, temperature curve and so on, can provide the curve printing function.

The normal package is wooden box(Size: L*W*H). If export to export countries,the wooden box will be fumigated.If container is too tighter,we will use PE film for packing or pack it according to customers special request.

3D Printing Filament Extrusion Line

Transaction History of the Supplier

conducted via If you require further details regarding the transaction data, please contact the supplier directly.

abs filament extrusion machine line

The suppliers transactions conducted via in the past 6 months.

The supplier supports Trade Assurance A free service that protects your orders from payment to delivery. Site:InternationalEspañolPortugusDeutschFrançaisItalianoहिंदीP한국어اللغة العربيةภาษาไทยTrkNederlandstiếng ViệtIndonesianעברית

Product Listing PolicyIntellectual Property ProtectionPrivacy PolicyTerms of UseLaw Enforcement Compliance Guide

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