3D Printing Materials The Pros and Cons of Each Type

When you buy a 3D printer, it comes with a sample roll of filament to use. But what do you use when this runs out? Find out in our guide to the different types of 3D printer filament available now for3D printers. Well look at the pros and cons of each material as well as which types will work with your 3D printer.

High melting point; Unpleasant fumes

Prints degrade over time; Rough texture

Slow to print; Heated printing bed needed

Mimics carbon fibers lightweight strength

Conducts electricity; Similar to PLA

A print made with ABS filament by the M3D Micro printer

What it is:Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) is the same  plastic used in Legos. Its tough, nontoxic and retains color well. Its also easy to shape, but tough to break, as it melts and becomes pliable at about 220 degrees C (about 430 degrees Fahrenheit).

These properties make ABS very suitable for 3D printing. You do need a large heater to reach that 220 degrees C melting point, but ABS becomes soft and pliable when heated and then sets quickly. A printer with a heated print bed is also usually needed as ABS will stick to a hot print bed.

As anyone who has stepped on a Lego will tell you, ABS is tough. Its also water- and chemical-resistant. ABS does produce a slightly unpleasant smell when heated, and the vapor can contain some nasty chemicals, so youll need good ventilation. Because ABS is broken down by UV radiation, it isnt suitable for long-term outdoor use, as it loses its color and becomes brittle.

Pros:Tough, impact-resistant material; Nontoxic and water resistant

Cons:High melting point; Unpleasant fumes; Not suitable for outdoor use

Good for:Gears and moving or interlocking parts

Compatible with:Printers with extruders that heat to 220 degrees C, such as theUltimaker 3andTAZ Mini

A print made in the tough PLA offered by Makerbot

What it is:Polylactic acid (PLA) is a polymer plastic, made from biological materials like cornstarch or sugarcane. It is similar to the material used in biodegradable plastic packaging and melts at between 180 and 200 degrees C, depending on other materials that are added for color and texture. PLA is a tough, resilient material with a matte, opaque quality, but it is not as tolerant of heat as ABS is. PLA begins to deform at temperatures above 60 degrees C, and it is not water or chemical resistant. There is a slight smell when it is heated, rather like microwave popcorn, but no toxic odors or vapor.

PLA is generally the preferred option for low-cost 3D printers, because it is easier to print with than ABS, as it is stickier. It will stick well to aprint base covered in white glue or blue painters tape, which means that a heated print bed is not needed. The material is also biodegradable; like other corn- or sugar-based materials, it is slowly consumed by many common bacteria. It will last a long time in normal conditions, though. Its only when buried that it breaks down. That said, PLA is not food safe and somewhat brittle, making prints prone to shattering under stress. However, chemicals can be added that make it less brittle and more heat-tolerant, creating what some manufacturers call tough PLA.

Pros:Easier to print with than ABS; Biodegradable

Cons:Prints degrade over time; Rougher texture than ABS

Good for:General printing, painted miniatures.

Compatible with:All FDM 3D printers, includingXYZ da Vinci MiniandLulzBot Mini.

A print made with ABS print material and PVA supports with the Ultimaker 3

What is it:Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is one of a new class of 3D printing materials that are used to make supports that hold 3D prints in place. A synthetic polymer, PVA is water soluble. It melts at about 200 degrees C, and can release some nasty chemicals if heated to higher temperatures.

This is why PVA is used in 3D printing. It can be used in a standard 3D printer extruder to form parts that support other objects, and it sticks to a heated, glass print bed well. Once the printing is complete, you immerse it in water, and the PVA parts will dissolve, leaving the rest of the insoluble print behind. This makes it easier to print complex models that require supports, or even models that include moving parts. If you do use water to dissolve PVA, youll need to properly dispose of it, as the sticky residue can clog drains. Check with your local water company for the recommended disposal method.

Pros:Water soluble; Good for supports; Fairly easy to print

Cons:Can release toxic vapors if overheated; Expensive; Requires appropriate disposal

Good for:printing complex models with PLA or ABS

Compatible with:Standard FDM printers with multiple extruders, such as theUltimaker 3

Prints made with 680, a nylon printer filament from Taulman

What it is:The name nylon can be used for any one of a number of synthetic polymers originally created as replacements for silks. Nylon is a tough material that has a very high tensile strength, meaning that it can hold a lot of weight without breaking. It melts at about 250 degrees C and is nontoxic.

Nylons use as relatively a 3D printing material is relatively new, but the material is becoming popular because the prints it produces are very tough and resistant to damage. It is cheap, because nylon is widely used in other industries, and its not damaged by most common chemicals. However, nylon does require high temperatures to print: 250 degrees C is hotter than many extruders can manage. And it is harder to get it to stick to the print bed than with ABS or PLA. Generally, nylon requires both a heated print bed and white glue to stick while printing.

Pros:Tough; Inexpensive printing material

Cons:Requires high temperatures to print

Good for:Utensils that touch food, plant pots that fill with water

Compatible with:FDM printers that can heat the extruder to 250 degrees C, such as theUltimaker 3orTAZ 6

A print made in HDPE with the LulzBot TAZ 5

What it is:High-density polyethylene (HDPE, though its also known as high-impact polystyrene, or HIPS)  is used in pipes and recyclable packaging such as plastic bottles and packages (ones with the recyclingID code 2). It is a light, flexible material that sticks to itself and other materials well. HDPE is also easy to dye and mold. It melts at about 230 degrees C, but releases unpleasant fumes if accidentally heated to higher temperatures.

In 3D printing, HDPE is often used instead of ABS, as comparable prints turn out lighter and stronger than ones with ABS. HDPE does require higher temperatures to print, though, and can release unpleasant fumes if the temperature is set too high. It is resistant to most chemicals, though you can dissolve HDPE with limonene, a solvent commonly used in industrial cleaners. HDPE does have a tendency to warp: as it cools, HDPE contracts slightly, which can lead to warped prints.

Solubility in limoleme means that HDPE can also be used for printing supports for 3D prints made with other materials. After the printing is complete, the supports can be dissolved by immersing the print in limonene, which wont affect materials such as ABS or PLA. HDPE does require an extruder that can reach 230 degrees C, though, and a heated print bed.

Pros:Easily dissolved in limonene, a common solvent; Lightweight

Cons:Requires high temperatures for printing

Good for:Lightweight prints, supports for ABS prints

Compatible with:Any printer that can handle ABS

A print made in t-glase material (Credit: )

What it is:Polyethylene terephthalate (PETT) is the chemical name of a material sold ast-glase. It is similar to polyester, often used to make clothes. It melts at about 230 degrees C, but cools into a rigid solid that resembles glass. It can be dyed while still retaining its glass-like qualities, so it is available in multiple colors. T-glase is approved for food use by the FDA, so you can use it to make dishes, cups and the like.

For 3D printing, t-glase can be printed onto a print bed heated to about 70 degrees C. It is mainly sold by Taulman, which introduced the material. While t-glase itself is strong and resilient, it has to be printed rather slowly to make sure that layers adhere properly. So printing with t-glase is typically much slower than with other materials.

Pros:Food-safe; Clear material with glass-like look

Cons:Requires heated print bed; Slow to print

Good for:Utensils, cups and others that touch food.

Compatible with:FDM printers with high-temperature extruders and heated print beds, such asUltimaker 3andTAZ 6

An iPhone case that was 3D printed in Woodfill filament (Credit: m)

What it is:These filaments are not made out of wood, but instead contain very fine wood particles combined with PLA and a polymer that binds them together. When printed and polished, the finished material can look a lot like wood. Versions are available for many different types of wood, frombambootoebony and mahogany. Some of these filaments allow you to change the color of the printed material by varying the temperature; at higher temperatures, the wood particles take on a darker, burned look.

These materials are printed in the same way as PLA filaments, with similar extruder temperatures and the addition of white glue to help the print stick to the print bed. The addition of the wood particles does make the process more prone to problems, though, and each different filament will require a lot of experimentation for successful prints. The material also requires extra finishing, such as sanding or mild abrasive treatment, to bring out the wood look.

Cons:Finicky to print with; Often requires sanding or other treatments to get the final desired look

Good for:Sculptures or faux-wood carvings

Compatible with:Any PLA printer, but experimentation with settings will be required

A polished print made in Brassfill filament (Credit: MatterHackers.com)

What it is:Metal filaments are made of very finely ground metals combined with PLA and a polymer glue. This means that they print like PLA, but have the look and feel of metals when you polish the final print. They work on any standard printer that supports PLA filament.

Available versions include steel, brass, bronze and copper particles to create the look and feel of those respective metals. The addition of the metal does change how they print, though, so experimentation is required to find the right settings on your 3D printer. These filaments also require sanding or polishing to create the metallic look. Right off the printer, they generally look like ceramics, but brushing with steel wool ora metal polish will  expose the metal particles to create the metal look.

Metal filaments are not as heavy as solid metal, so a print of a statue with a bronze filament will not weigh as much as a cast bronze version. Also, since the particles of metal are bound by the PLA and glue, these filaments wont conduct electricity.

Cons:Requires experimentation to find correct print settings; Expensive

Good for:Metal sculptures, figurines

Compatible with:Any PLA printer, but experimentation with settings will be required

An RC car whose nonelectronic parts were printed with carbon fiber filament (Credit: ColorFabb.com)

What it is:Carbon fiber filaments likethis one from MatterHackersthat uses nylon, or this one fromProto-pasta that uses PLA  combine carbon fiber and the filament material to give you some of the advantages of this new material: rigidity, strength and very low weight. However, this should be used with caution. Carbon fiber is a very abrasive material that can wear away the hot end of the extruder very quickly, so youll need to get a reinforced extruder or replace it after a few prints.

There is one company that is making true carbon fiber 3D printers: MarkForged. ItsMark Two, Onyx and Mark X printerscan print using the companys own pure carbon fiber filament. But those printers arent cheap; the Mark Two will cost you a cool $13,499, while the carbon fiber filament it uses costs $149 a reel.

Pros:Has some of the lightweight strength of carbon fiber

Cons:Can damage some extruders; Expensive

Good for:Structural prints that need to be strong and lightweight.

Compatible with:Any FDM printer with a replaceable extruder

A 3D printed watch strap that uses flexible material (Credit: YouImagine.com)

What it is:Most 3D printing materials strive for rigidity, creating prints that are strong. Thats not always what you need, though, and flexible filaments likeNinjaFlex,PolyFlexorTrueFlexproduce rubber-like prints that can be used to make things like phone covers, flexible joints and wearable prints.

However, this flexibility also poses a problem. FDM 3D printers work by pushing the filament into the heated extruder, where it melts. You cant do that as easily if the material is flexible: it would just block up the print head. So most printers will require modification to use these flexible filaments. 3D printer maker LulzBot, for instance, offers a replacement print head, called theFlexystruder, thats designed to handle flexible filaments

Other manufacturers offer what they call semiflexible filaments, likeMakerBots Flexible Filamentor the newTPU95 A from Ultimaker. These arent as rubber-like as the ones above, but they still provide some flexibility; for instance, the MakerBot filament becomes flexible when you put it in hot water, allowing you to reshape or squish a print into a tight-fitting spot before the material cools and becomes rigid again.

Pros:Produces squishy, flexible prints

Cons:Requires modification of the printer or extruder

Good for:Wearable prints, phone covers, toys

Cost:$50 to $120 per kg, plus the cost of a modified extruder

Compatible with:Any FDM printer with a replaceable extruder

A print using conductive filament. (Credit: Thingiverse)What it is:New on the market are conductive filaments from companies likeProto Pastaor BlackMagic 3D that combine PLA with graphene, a form of carbon that conducts electricity. This means that you can print electric circuits directly without needing to add wires. This can be great for things like touch buttons, wearable electronics or styluses that conduct electricity.

These materials do require care when printing, as the layers of the print dont stick to each other as well as normal PLA. The prints also tend to be brittle, and bending them can break the conductive graphene part so that they no longer conduct electricity. They are best used alongside normal PLA filament. Generally, you would print a PLA case around the parts that conduct electricity to protect it and give it more strength.

Conductive filaments are also not cheap. Youll typically pay about $70 for a small 100g reel of this experimental new filament.

Pros:Conducts electricity; Prints like PLA

Cons:Expensive; Still very experimental

Good for:3D printing electrical devices

Compatible with:Most printers that support PLA

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What types of filaments can be used in 3D printers?

3D printers are becoming very popular now a days and the reason behind it is its advance applications and cost effectiveness. It is also true that not every organization needs a 3D printer, but there are some industries whose working criteria are based upon 3D printing like Aerospace, Architecture, Dental, Footwear, Automotive, and others. With the help of these 3D printers one can print the exact replica of an object.

Lets have a look at the benefits of 3D printing

1.Product testing: -Through 3D printing one can produce cheap prototypes to conduct the accurate tests. The initial cost of the test is high, but it is much affordable than the conventional method.

2.Design Inustry:- In the manufacturing industry, 3D designing is used to bring the ideas into reality. It helps a lot in deeply visualizing the prototype. Other than saving your time and efforts, the 3D printers have made the product designs less prone to common errors, which earlier lots of errors use to occur. It now facilitates rapid prototyping with ideal dimensions which was not possible initially and was a long and detailed process.

3.Organ donation: -Also known as Bio-printing is the way to create human organs with the help of aDell 3D printer. In future, it will definitely help a lot in the shortage of organ donation. So now we can say that 3D printers are a boon for industries. It is a perfect example of technological advancements, which proved out to be very cost effective in small scale industries.

If you want to overcome printing related problems in your windows 7, 8or other, then call1-, the printer support experts and feel free.

Author BioAnna Steven is working in a reputedprinter and peripheralsupport firm i.e..Dell Computer Technical Support Phone Number .Along with this she also provides assistance for all types of computer issues.

Related QuestionsMore Answers Below

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There are several types of filaments that can be used in 3D printers these days.

Check out some of the 3D printed parts below:

3D printed Mushrooms – Glow-in-the-dark Filament

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3D printed miniature – Bronze filament

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Check us out onGlobal 3D Labsand make sure you stalk us on Facebook () and Twitter(@Global3DLabs)

It all varies from Printer to Printer. Certain factors like Heated bed, Nozzle, Enclosed print chamber, etc. helps print more material.

Majorly all 3D Printer can print in PLA. For ABS, you need a heated bed and ideally a heated print chamber too. If the 3D Printer use Bowden system for supplying filament to nozzle then materials like Nylon, Ninja Flex, etc. cannot be printed.

If the nozzle can heat upto 300 degrees Celsius and has a heated bed then Special materials like Copperfill, Bronzefill, Woodfill, etc. can be printed.

However it all depends on the configuration and specifications of the 3D printer.

Everything fluctuates from Printer to Printer. Certain components like Heated bed, Nozzle, Enclosed print chamber, and so forth prints more material.

Significantly every one of the 3D Printer can print in PLA. For ABS, you require a warmed overnight boardinghouse a warmed print chamber as well. In the event that the 3D Printer use Bowden framework for supplying fiber to spout then materials like Nylon, Ninja Flex, and so on cant be printed.

On the off chance that the spout can warm upto 300 degrees Celsius and has a warmed bed then Special materials like Copperfill, Bronzefill, Woodfill, and so forth can be printed. clickShop – Easy 3D Printingto know more.

In any case everything relies on upon the setup and determinations of the 3D printer.

There are many types of filaments that can be used in 3D printers. Some of them are as follows:-

Shop now from Amazonhigh quality filamentto get incredible results. When you will use filament like this, you will see the quality is reflected in the model and you will also notice the vibrancy of the colors.

, 3+ years in building & writing about 3d Printers & Printing any object

There are different types of filament available which are very unique in nature. There is Abs, PLA, wood, copper , bronze, gold, water soluble, flexible PLA, glow in dark, form based, resins based, carbon fill and much more. For more details visit

and scroll on to 3d printer ink section.

3D Printing is possible in these materials:

PLASTICS : ABS, Polyamide, Resin, Elastic Plastic, Alumide

STEEL : Stainless Steel, High Detail Stainless Steel

PRECIOUS METALS: Brass, Bronze, Silver, Gold,Platinum, Titanium, Rhodium

FULL COLOR: Full Color Plastic, Full Color Sandstone

You can get full list from novabeans website Indians biggest 3D printing provider

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Whether for personal, professional, or educational use, 3D printers are more affordable than ever. Heres what you need to know to get started along with our top performers in testing.

PCMag reviews productsindependently, but we may earn affiliate commissions from buying links on this page.Terms of use.

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Bottom Line:The LulzBot Mini 3D Printer is amazingly easy to set up and use, can print with a wide variety of fi…

Bottom Line:The MakerBot Replicator+ 3D printer is a marked upgrade over its predecessor, offering better speed,…

Bottom Line:The XYZprinting da Vinci Mini is a consumer-oriented 3D printer that provides a winning combination …

Bottom Line:The Ultimaker 3 has very good print quality for a 3D printer that prints with plastic filament, and …

Bottom Line:The XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 2.0 Mix is great choice for a low-price consumer 3D printer, especially…

Bottom Line:The Flashforge Finder 3D Printer is moderately priced and offers good print quality, but it proved t…

Bottom Line:The New Matter MOD-t 3D Printer is a good-looking $400 3D printer with good overall print quality de…

Bottom Line:The reasonably priced Robo 3D R1 +Plus 3D doesnt boast the best print quality weve seen, but it of…

Bottom Line:The Ultimaker 2+ 3D printer is easy to set up and use, and has good overall print quality, but it ca…

ReviewXYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 2.0 Mix

Whether for personal, professional, or educational use, 3D printers are more affordable than ever. Heres what you need to know to get started along with our top performers in testing.

Barely a decade ago,3D printerswere hulking, expensive machines reserved for factories and well-heeled corporations. They were all but unknown outside the small circles of professionals who built and used them. But thanks largely to theRepRapopen-source 3D printing movement, these amazing devices have become viable and affordable products for use by designers, engineers, hobbyists, schools, and even consumers. If youre in the market for one, its important to know how 3D printers differ from one another so you can choose the right model. They come in a variety of styles, and may be optimized for a particular audience or kind of printing. Preparing to take the plunge? Heres what you need to consider.

Tied into the matter of what you want to print is a more fundamental question: Why do you want to print in 3D? Are you a consumer interested in printing toys and/or household items? A trendsetter who enjoys showing the latest gadgetry to your friends? An educator seeking to install a 3D printer in a classroom, library, or community center? A hobbyist or DIYer who likes to experiment with new projects and technologies? A designer, engineer, or architect who needs to create prototypes or models of new products, parts, or structures? An artist who seeks to explore the creative potential of fabricating 3D objects? Or a manufacturer, looking to print plastic items in relatively short runs?

Your optimal 3D printer depends on how you plan to use it. Consumers and schools will want a model thats easy to set up and use, doesnt require much maintenance, and has reasonably good print quality. Hobbyists and artists may want special features, such as the ability to print objects with more than one color, or to use multiple filament types. Designers and other professionals will want outstanding print quality. Shops involved in short-run manufacturing will want a large build area to print multiple objects at once. Individuals or businesses wanting to show off the wonders of 3D printing to friends or clients will want a handsome, yet reliable machine.

For this guide, we will focus on 3D printers in the sub-$4,000 range, targeted at consumers, hobbyists, schools, product designers, and other professionals, such as engineers and architects. The vast majority of printers in this range build 3D objects out of successive layers of molten plastic, a technique known as fused filament fabrication (FFF). It is also frequently called Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), although that term is trademarked by Stratasys, Inc. A few use stereolithographythe first 3D printing technique to be developedin which ultraviolet (UV) lasers trace a pattern on a photosensitive liquid resin, hardening the resin to form the object.

Make sure that a 3D printers build area is large enough for the kind of objects that you intend to print with it. The build area is the size, in three dimensions, of the largest object that can be printed with a given printer (at least in theoryit may be somewhat less if the build platform is not exactly level, for example). Typical 3D printers have build areas between 6 and 9 inches square, but they can range from a few inches up to more than 2 feet on a side, and a few are actually square. In our reviews, we provide the build area in inches, in height, width, and depth (HWD).

The vast majority of lower-priced 3D printers use the FFF technique, in which plastic filament, available in spools, is melted and extruded, and then solidifies to form the object. The two most common types of filament by far are acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and polylactic acid (PLA). Each has slightly different properties. For example, ABS melts at a higher temperature than PLA and is more flexible, but emits fumes when melted that many users find unpleasant, and needs a heated print bed. PLA prints look smooth, but tend to be on the brittle side.

Other materials used in FFF printing include, but are not limited to, high-impact polystyrene (HIPS), wood, bronze, and copper composite filaments, UV-luminescent filaments, nylon, Tritan polyester, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), polyethylene terephthalate (PETT), polycarbonate, conductive PLA and ABS, plasticized copolyamide thermoplastic elastomer (PCTPE), and PC-ABS. Each material has a different melt point, so use of these exotic filaments is limited to printers designed for them, or ones with software that lets users control the extruder temperature.

Filament comes in two diameters1.85mm and 3mmwith most models using the smaller-diameter filament. Filament is sold in spools, generally 1kg (2.2 pounds), and sells for between $20 and $50 per kilogram for ABS and PLA. Although many 3D printers will accept generic spools, some companies 3D printers use proprietary spools or cartridges. Make sure that the filament is the right diameter for your printer, and that the spool is the right size. In many cases, you can buy or make (even 3D print) a spool holder that will fit various spool sizes.

Stereolithography printers can print at high resolutions and eschew filament in favor of photosensitive (UV-curable) liquid resin, which is sold in bottles. Only a limited color palette is available: mainly clear, white, gray, black, or gold. Working with liquid resin and isopropyl alcohol, which is used in the finishing process for stereolithography prints, can be messy.

A 3D printer extrudes successive thin layers of molten plastic in accordance with instructions coded in the file for the object being printed. For 3D printing, resolution equals layer height. Resolution is measured in microns, with a micron being 0.001mm, and the lower the number, the higher the resolution. Thats because the thinner each layer is, the more layers are needed to print any given object, and the finer the detail that can be captured. Note, however, that increasing the resolution is sort of like increasing a digital cameras megapixel count: Although a higher resolution often helps, it doesnt guarantee good print quality.

Nearly all 3D printers being sold today can print at a resolution of 200 micronswhich should produce decent-quality printsor better, and many can print at 100 microns, which generally delivers good-quality prints. A few can print at higher resolutions still, as fine as 20 microns, but you may have to go beyond the preset resolutions and into custom settings to enable resolutions finer than 100 microns.

Higher resolution comes at a price, as youll usually pay a premium for printers with resolutions higher than 100 microns. Another downside of increasing the resolution is that it can add to print times. Halving the resolution will roughly double the time it takes to print a given object. But for professionals who require the highest quality in the objects they print, the extra time may be worth it.

The field of 3D printing for consumers and hobbyists is still in its infancy. The technology has been evolving at a rapid rate, making these products ever more viable and affordable. We cant wait to see what improvements the coming years bring.

Some 3D printers with multiple extruders can print objects in two or more colors. Most are dual-extruder models, with each extruder being fed a different color of filament. One caveat is that they can only print multicolored objects from files that have been designed for multicolor printing, with a separate file for each color, so the areas of different colors fit together like (three-dimensional) jigsaw puzzle pieces.

The importance of the build platform (the surface on which you are printing) may not be apparent to 3D printing newbies, but it can prove critical in practice. A good platform will let an object adhere to it while printing, but allow for easy removal when the printing is done. The most common configuration is a heated glass platform covered with blue painters tape or a similar surface. Objects stick to the tape reasonably well, and are easy to remove when completed. Heating the platform can prevent the bottom corners of objects from curling upward, which is a common issue, especially when printing with ABS.

With some build platforms, you apply glue (from a glue stick) to the surface, to give the object something on which to adhere. This is workable, as long as the object can easily be removed after printing. (In some cases, you have to soak both platform and object in warm water for the object to come loose.)

A few 3D printers use a sheet of perforated board with tiny holes that fill with hot plastic during printing. The trouble with this method is that although it will hold an object solidly in place during printing, the object may not easily come loose afterward. Using a thumb tack or an awl to push the plugs of hardened plastic out of the perforations to free the object and/or clean the board is a time-consuming process, and can damage the board.

If the build platform becomes tilted, it can impede printing, particularly of larger objects. Most 3D printers offer instructions on how to level the build platform, or provide a calibration routine in which the extruder moves to different points on the platform to ensure that the points are all at the same height. A small but growing number of 3D printers automatically level the build platform.

Setting the extruder at the proper height above the build platform when commencing a print job is also important for many printers. Such Z-axis calibration is usually performed manually, by lowering the extruder until its so close to the build platform that a sheet of paper placed between extruder and platform can move horizontally with slight resistance. A few printers automatically perform this calibration.

Closed-frame 3D printers have an enclosed structure with a door, walls, and a lid or hood. Open-frame models provides easy visibility of print jobs in progress, and easy access to the print bed and extruder. A closed-frame model is safer, keeping kids and pets (and adults) from accidentally touching the hot extruder. And it also means quieter operation, reducing fan noise and possible odor, especially when printing with ABS, which can exude what some users describe as a burnt-plastic smell.

With most 3D printers, you initiate the printing from a computer via a USB connection. Some printers add their own internal memory, which is an advantage because they can keep a print job in memory and continue printing even if the USB cable is disconnected or the computer is shut down. A few offer wireless connectivity, either via 802.11 Wi-Fi or a direct, peer-to-peer link. A downside of wireless is that, because 3D printing files can be up to 10MB in size, it can take much longer to transfer them. Another connection method that we have seen is Ethernet.

Many 3D printers have SD card slots from which you can load and print 3D object files using the printers controls and display, while others have ports for USB thumb drives. The advantage of printing directly from media is that you dont need a computer. The downside is that they add an extra step, in transferring the files to your card. Typically, wireless, SD card, or USB thumb-drive connectivity is offered in addition to basic USB cable, although a few models offer one or more of those options.

Todays 3D printers come with software on a disk or as a download. ItsWindowscompatible, and in many cases can work withmacOSand Linux as well. Not long ago, 3D printing software consisted of several parts, including a printing program that controlled the motion of the extruder, a healing program to optimize the file to be printed, a slicer to prepare the layers to be printed at the proper resolution, and the Python programming language. These components were derived from the RepRap open-source tradition that spurred the development of low-cost 3D printers, but today 3D printer manufacturers have integrated these programs into seamless user-friendly packages. Some 3D printers allow you to use separate component programs if you prefer.

Below are the best 3D printers that weve reviewed recently. They cover a wide range in price, features, and printing methods, but they all represent quality. For more information on what 3D printing is, and how it works, ourprimeris a good place to start. And be sure to check out our roundup of thebest overall printers.

Featured 3D Printer Reviews:Formlabs Form 2ReviewMSRP: $3499.00at

Bottom Line:The Form 2 offers magnificent print quality, a good selection of resins, and an improved user experience over the previous generation of Formlabs 3D printers.

Bottom Line:The LulzBot Mini 3D Printer is amazingly easy to set up and use, can print with a wide variety of filament types, and made it through our tests without a single misprint.

Bottom Line:The MakerBot Replicator+ 3D printer is a marked upgrade over its predecessor, offering better speed, a larger build area, and workflow solutions for professionals.

Bottom Line:The XYZprinting da Vinci Mini is a consumer-oriented 3D printer that provides a winning combination of low price, ease of setup and use, solid print quality, and smooth, misprint-free operat…

Bottom Line:The Ultimaker 3 has very good print quality for a 3D printer that prints with plastic filament, and its dual print cores let you print using two filament types or colors.

Bottom Line:The XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 2.0 Mix is great choice for a low-price consumer 3D printer, especially if you want to print in two colors.

Bottom Line:The Flashforge Finder 3D Printer is moderately priced and offers good print quality, but it proved tricky to get up and running in our tests.

Bottom Line:The New Matter MOD-t 3D Printer is a good-looking $400 3D printer with good overall print quality despite occasional misprints in testing.

Bottom Line:The reasonably priced Robo 3D R1 +Plus 3D doesnt boast the best print quality weve seen, but it offers versatile software and a large print area, and it can print with multiple filament ty…

Bottom Line:The Ultimaker 2+ 3D printer is easy to set up and use, and has good overall print quality, but it cant unseat our top pick.

As Analyst for printers, scanners, and projectors, Tony Hoffman tests and reviews these products and provides news coverage for these categories. Tony has worked at PC Magazine since 2004, first as a Staff Editor, then as Reviews Editor, and more recently as Managing Editor for the printers, scanners, and projectors team. In addition to editing, …See Full Bio

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Top 5 Tips for

The development of exotic filaments, including flexible filament, is driving advances in the applications of 3D printing technology. Thanks to these new materials, we can now print an increasingly complex and diverse array of 3D designs. With any new material, comes a new set of challenges to get the best prints possible. In this article, we will go through some different types of flexible filament, some common challenges, and the top 5 tips for successful results with flexible filament.

Flexsolid is a high strength flexible filament with good elasticity.  This is a great filament to use for anything that will require high durability   like mechanical items that will be handled a lot or sporting equipment.  Highly detailed prints may come out stringy so this filament is best used for simple prints that would require a lot of strength and flexibility. The filament is fairly easy to print compared to others.

NinjaFlex is a thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) and is softer than FlexiFil™.  Its also a very strong material to print with (on par with FlexSolid). NinjaFlex has a low friction exterior, which helps reduce buckling and speeds up printing.  It has fairly good reviews from the online community, but some people have challenges with feeding. It requires low heat to stick to the print bed (30-50 celsius).

They also released a new product calledSemiFlexwhich (surprise, surprise!) is semi-flexible but not as soft as their regular line.

This material is made from Thermoplastic Co-Polyester (TPC) and is also quite flexible.  It is resistant to high temperatures and is strong.  If being environmentally friendly is important to you, it is partially made out of renewable carbon content (bio based oils).  One challenge with this filament is that it can get clogged in the extruder (we provide some tips below to help you avoid this).

Fila Flex is made from the same material as NinjaFlex (TPE) and has similar properties but is not as strong as Ninjaflex.  Its very soft and is highly adhesive so layers stick together well. This material is more elastic than NinjaFlex and is good for prints that need a lot of stretch, but also makes it one of the most difficult to print with.  Since it is so soft, however, it may have a tendency to come out stringy or clog your nozzle. This filament will print on a cold bed.

This is a polyester based filament and is firmer than NinjaFlex and FlexiFil.  It also has a lower melting point which is meant to make it easier to extrude. One fun feature is you can adjust your print by running it under hot water to re-shape it. It is stiffer than FlexiFil™ and has a nice iridescent glossy finish. Challenges are it is sometimes difficult to feed without tangling.  Recommended settings are found on the Makerbot website.

Flexible resinwill only work for SLA 3D printers. However because SLA is not a feeding system, flexible resin doesnt come with many of the challenges that flexible filament does. If you own an SLA 3D Printer, flexible resin is a useful material that is great for printing tactile designs. Check out thiscollection of designs by Formlabson things you could 3D print with flexible resin.

Those are just a few of the flexible filaments on the market.  Your decision on which filament to use for the best print will depend on what you are printing, your budget, and what type of extruder you are using. Every filament will have different recommended settings for optimal print so its best to check with the supplier.

Although flexible 3D printing filament can be very useful, all new technology has its hiccups.  Here are the main challenges you may face when printing with flexible filament.

1. Feeding filament through the extruder:Flexible filament is much softer than regular filament and can be difficult to feed through the extruder and can cause jams. To successfully feed the filament from the drive gear through to the hot end, it needs a direct path.  This is usually not a problem with regular filament because it is stiff, but with flexible filament, it can get deformed and stuck.

2. Material buckling:Due to the nature of flexible filament, pressure in the nozzle will sometimes cause the material to buckle when pushed through the hot end.  This is usually caused by printing too quickly or not having a tight and narrow pathway between your extruder and your hot end.  This is described byone userwho tested a few different materials.  Material buckling can also cause jams.

3. Difficulty sticking to build plate:To avoid shrinkage and get the best adhesion to your print bed, the print bed temperature may need adjusting.  Usually the culprit is cold print beds or bad levelling.

4. Messy or stringy prints:Asymptom of pressure build up in the extruder is extra filament will ooze out and create a messy print.  This is caused by a number of factors, including temperature, speed, and retraction settings.

In general, recommended speeds for flexible filament is between30mm 40mm/secondfor optimal print quality and timing. If youre printing with FlexiFil™, they recommend 10-20mm/s. Print speed can be set as low as 5mm per second for precise prints. Yes, we know   its really slow! Printing slowly will increase your chances for a successful print because it helps you avoid pressure build up in your extruder which can lead to messy prints.

To avoid filament jamming in the extruder, it is best to reduce the space between the cold end and the nozzle by using a direct-drive extruder. According to Fenner Drives, the makers of Ninjaflex, bowden extruders are not recommended for printing with flexible filament. Thoughits not impossibleto do, its more challenging.

If you are printing with a bowden extruder, Thomas Sanladerer made a great video tutorial below on how to print NinjaFlex with a bowden extruder.

3. Keep temperature hotbut not too hot:

Heating up your extruder temperature allows filament to flow more easily through your nozzle. The downside of this is it can cause oozing and stringy, uneven prints.Every printer and type of filament will require slight adjustments in temperature settings for the best print.Makezines flexible filament guideincludes a great chart with recommended temperatures for different flexible filaments, which can be seen below.

Retractioncan relieve the pressure from the hot end and keep filament from being pushed through the nozzle when the extruder isnt printing. You can adjust your retraction settings depending on the problem you are experiencing. If your extruder is clogged, you will want to lower your retraction. Some have had success with flexible filaments at retraction of zero. You want to find the minimum amount of retraction necessary to reduce the extra stringiness in your print.  If you are experiencing extra material coming out of your nozzle, you will want to increase your retraction distance or speed.

5. Adjust hot bed temperature & use tape:

Hairspray is great to keep hair in one place for those sweet 80s hair styles.  It is not necessarily the best solution for keeping your filament on the print bed (though sometimes it works for that too!).  Flexible filament should stick quite well toKapton tapeor regular blue painters tape.  For your hot bed, temperature settings may vary depending on what type of printer and filament you are using. Most companies recommend between 40-50C but for the best results we recommend referring to the filament guide for the product you are using.

In addition to flexible filament,  you might want to try some other materials for your next project. Weve got you covered with ourexotic filament guideby 3DSupplyGuys, which describes the different properties of these filaments and what they are best used for. Check it out!

Pinshape is a 3D printing community and marketplace where makers from all over the world can find and share their next great 3D print and help each other get the best results from their 3D printers.

I have 3 CubeX printers and have tried NinjaFlex and the the printer will not push the filament thru nozzle. Is there a stiffer flexable filament that may feed thru the nozzle on the CubeX printers?

Hi Bruce! Thanks for your question. There are some filaments that are semi-flexible and therefore a little easier to feed through while keeping some of their flex. Ninjaflex makes a semi-flexible material called semiflex and polymaker makes one called polyflex. Let us know if you do try one of these and if it worked better for you!

If the issue is that the filament jams inside the extruder just after the drive gear, one option is to add a little wedge of material that supports the filament from the roller+drive gear to the usual extruder exit hole. You do need to attach it securely, the difficulty of which varies from extruder to extruder.

Sometimes easier to print a new extruder body with the extra filament support printed in.

Form Futura has the Porolay series of filaments with the LayFomm and GelLay. These filaments are ridged when printed. After soaking in water, they become rubber like and may be what you are after. I am unsure if they are compatible with your printer though, but have a look at see if its something you can work with.

After a few tests on a ultimaker 2 (bowden), I can say, that printing filaflex is really hard. I use a alternative extruder version, which made it possible to get something out of the nozzle, but the results are poor. Massive underextrusion even at 10mm/s, buckling at the extruder gear and so on. Ive also tried innoflex, which is way stiffer. This works well at 20mm/s.

Direct Drive ftw! Thanks for summing it up guys. Anyone here have success with a particular type of flexible filament over another?

We recommend printing on flexible materials in all markers experienced since our lab has studied them starting to print objects about year ago but the results are not seen their excellent potential of the material that is exceptional, however, he managed to work with many variations of preparation press to get a good result, the risks are rolling up in the press, burns of the object in print if not melted materials in exact temperature.

Printing flexible materials is gorgeous but always print after a careful calibration printer, print speed, heat dish and very important form of the object because not all objects can have a good success with flexible filament.

Good print at all hoping every day to obtain better results from every filament currently on the market.

Hey, thats my scrubbie design in the header 😉 I sell starter quantities of NinjaFlex and Semiflex if anyone wants to give it a try.

When using a bowden tube extruder (like Ultimaker 2) you should use this modification to be able to print flexible filaments (like ninjaflex and filaflex):

Hey guys, I have a quick question Is the flexible PLA in this article: similar to the one you are describing?

We dont have experience printing with that brand of filament but it looks to be a flexible filament so the same guidelines probably still apply!

Ok! thanks for the info, I think im going to go ahead and try it out. Ill let you guys know how it goes.

Your Blogpost on top 5 tips for best results with flexible filament is great. There are just a few of the flexible filaments on the market. We can decide on which filament to use for the best print. Your blog have provided different properties of these filaments and also provides what they are best used for. This will help me to choose a better filament.

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A guide to 3D printer filament materials

Your one stop UK shop for 3D printers and 3D printer filament

There seems to be a myriad of different types of 3D printer filament available to buy, so the question is what are the different types of 3D printer filament and what can they be used for?

The most common types of 3D printer filament are ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) and PLA (Polylactic acid), both are thermoplastics i.e. plastics that when heated to a certain temperature become soft and pliable but on cooling returns to a solid state. Other types of filament include flexible filaments, Wood pulp filaments

ABS or Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene 3D printer filament

PLA or Polylactic acid 3D printer filament

PET/PTEG or Polyethylene terephthalate 3D printer filament

HIPS or High Impact Polystyrene 3D printer filament

PVA or Polyvinyl alcohol 3D printer filament

ABSis a good all round printer filament. As a material it is noteworthy for its toughness. Something that you will be familiar with which is made from ABS is Lego. Additional advantages of ABS are that it can produce a good finish which can be improved (smoothed) with an acetone vapour treatment. Toe print with ABS filament your 3D printer will require extruder temperatures of 210-255, using lower temperatures can result in the increased incidence of blockage of the extruder. It also has good temperature and impact resistance making objects or parts 3D printed with ABS less prone to deformation post production. However, it is prone to warping on the printer bed and so is not ideal for objects that need to be flat though the warping can be ameliorated by using a heated printer bed. It is also petroleum based and so is not considered to be as environmentally friendly as filament alternatives like PLA.

A marked advantage of usingPLAfor your 3D printing jobs is that it is a bioplastic, derived from renewable resources like corn or soya; it is essentially made from starch. For 3D printing PLA does not suffer so readily from warping and so does not require a heated printer bed. Post-production it is more resistant to UV light. It also reaches a runnier state of liquefication than, for example, ABS, it becomes malleable at ~60, this lower temperature also means that a lower extruder temperature than ABS is required at ~ 180-210.. This property results in greater bonding between layers. If actively cooled it can result in sharper, more accurate, detail. PLA can be sanded to give it a finished, smooth, look. PLA can also be used to make casts in a process called Lost PLA Casting. A PLA object is encased in a plaster mold and then molten metal is poured into the mold burning away the PLA. PLA is a very good 3D printer filament to buy to use in schools and colleges. One disadvantage is that PLA has a higher coefficient of friction which means that it is harder to push through the extruder. This can lead to issues with feed rate but varying the extruder temperature can help with this.

PTEG is a versatile 3D printer filament that is strong, rigid and lightweight with good impact resistance. PTEG printer filament is a clear thermoplastic although due to the layering it is never truly transparent, the transparency is broken up by the bonds between the layers. Its working temperature range is from 160-210. A good advantage of using PTEG is that it is fully recycleable. PTEG is also used for food containers, therefore filament like Colorfabbs XT or Taulman3D PET Natural Filament is FDA food contact approved.

There are a couple of forms of filament mixed with wooden particles. This can give you an attractive wood effect object that can be vanished and sanded like wood. It is a bit like 3D printed MDF. The wood fill filaments have between 30-40% wood particles mixed with a plastic base. There can be issues with clogging depending upon the size of the wood particles used, a larger extruder nozzle would be required for larger particle sizes to prevent clogging. But, in general they a easy to work with, stick to the bed easy and show little warping. You can change the darkness of the wood by altering the print temperature, hotter temperatures give a darker wood effect. The working temperature range can vary depending on the manufacturer but is quite high, similar to ABS. Wood fill 3D printed objects are not strong though, it is softer than 100% plastic filament. Current forms of wood filament areColorFabbs WoodFilland Orbi-techs Laywoo-D3.

Also in this section we will mention Straw and seaweed based filaments. It is made using the same concept, rather than wood particles it uses straw or seaweed. These filaments are softer like wood fill filament. Jiangsu Jinghe Hi-Tech Co have developed the Straw based filament, it does not appear to be available yet but they report it as being a cheap alternative to ABS and to be a strong material. The seaweed filament is also currently unavailable, it has been developed by Le Fabshop and Algopack.

Metal effect 3D printer filaments are, like wood effect filaments, made from thermoplastic embedded with metal particles. Metal fill filaments can produce a very nice effect and are very good for making jewellery and statues. Generally speaking if sanded and then polished with copper polish a very nice effect can be achieved. They are best used with all metal hotends and steps should be taken to increase the flow rate of the filament by 4-8%. Common versions of metal effect 3D printer filament areColorFabbs BronzeFillorCopperFill speciality filaments.

Lay-ceramic is a great addition to the host of materials being developed for 3D printers. It allows you to 3D print a ceramic object that can then be fired in a Kiln and Glazed. However you may have to hold your horses as it is not that straight forward to print with. Your 3D printer will need some modifications to manage the feed and state transition of the material. A full metal hot end, the part that heats the filament to the desired temperature, is recommended for quick and controlled heating. Also a good quality Hobbed bolt. The Hobbed bolt feeds the filament through the hot end. Lay-ceramic is quite viscous and so has high resistance to be pushed through your extruder set up. Additionally a filament heater and a good cooling fan set up are recommended. Lay-ceramic is not for the beginner.

Lay-brick is an alternative that is a plastic/chalk powder mix filament. It has a working range of 160-190, the higher the temperature the rougher the finish. Cooling fans are needed at higher temperatures. The filament is easy to print and has similar properties to PLA. It does not require a heated bed but it is very brittle. It is a good material to print ornamental objects.

HIPS or High Impact Polystyrene is a strong, heat resistant thermoplastic used extensively in the food packaging industry. It is a very good 3D printer filament with similar printing properties to ABS. But it has a very useful difference in that it is dissolvable with Limonene, a colourless hydrocarbon. This property makes HIPS an ideal partner to ABS for building support structures for complex ABS models. The HIPS supports can be dissolved away leaving the ABS model. It has quite a high extrusion temperature at ~230 and like ABS ideally requires a heated bed. Also with HIPS it is important to let it cool properly as it remains pliable for a long time.

PVA is used in a similar way as HIPS for support structures used in the build of more complex structures. However, PVA is the companion for builds with PLA rather than ABS. The advantage of PVA is that rather than the need for a rather smelly hydrocarbon to dissolve it it will dissolve in cold water. However, PVA needs to be stored very carefully as it is hydrophilic and will attract ambient moisture that will deteriorate the material. It therefore needs to be stored in a sealed container, preferably with silica. Its working range is quite narrow as well between 170-190.

There is a lot of development going on in the 3D printing world and things are changing fast. PolyMakr are currently developing additional wood and flexible filaments. Also there is a great variety of mixed filaments, both PLA and ABS being mixed with additional materials to enhance the filaments properties, whether it is strength or heat resistance Proto-pasta has a good example fo products for this. We also very much like the concept of Hyrels Emulsifiable Extruder (EMO-25). This is a great direction for 3D printing. Hopefully we will keep this page updated and augment iDig 3D printings 3D printer shop with new types of 3D filament to buy.

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Was having problems calibrating my printer until I contacted iDig3DPrinting. They responded quickly and provided great technical documentation that I couldnt find anywhere else. Thanks!!

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Guide to 27 Filament Types

Ive just come across this guide ( … ood-metal/) and thought everyone might like to take a look, it tells you lots of great info. It includes descriptions of the features off each main type, their uses, their pros & cons, their hotend/bed temps, and rates them for their strength, durability, Flexibility and the skill needed to print with them…

There first is a handy quick reference table, then detailed sections on each type. Here is the first section as an example:

3D Printer Filament Types 1: PLAfilament1.jpgPolylactic acid (PLA) has overtakenABSto become the favorite 3D printer filament among 3D printing enthusiasts. This is a biodegradable thermoplastic derived from renewable resources such as corn starch or sugar cane. As a result, PLA based 3D printer filaments are much more environmentally friendly than other plastic materials. It is even called the green plastic.

The other great feature of PLA 3D printer filament is that it doesnt give off an evil smell when printing with it, so its comparatively safer in the home and classroom. And the plastic doesnt contract so dramatically when cooling down, so you dont necessarily need a heated bed on your 3D printer (though it helps).

The structure of PLA is more rigid than ABS, which means printed objects are slightly brittle, and the material melts in the range of 180C 230C.

Read more about PLA vs ABS:ABS/PLA: 3D Printer Filaments Explained & Compared

PLA 3D Printer Filament Properties:

Primary benefits are good strength, user-friendly, durability, and some impact resistance

Ideal for consumer products, small toys, higher print speeds, smoother layers

Fair to good durability, but it can deform when getting too hot.

Very limited flexibility, slightly brittle

Refer to manufacturer guidelines for food safety

General print temperature range is 180C 230C

Minor shrinkage during cooling, less sensitive compared to ABS

Printing difficulty is easy, once temperature, bed height and speed are set

I 2nd that this is a very important link to have bookmarked. A great link for beginners and some experienced users too.

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New EasyWelder Tool welds multiple types of 3D printing filaments

Despite the many new 3D printer models, filaments and even technologies that have been released in recent memory, many of the same problems that have plagued 3D printer users in the past are still in existence today.

Among other problems, these include finishing 3D prints so that they are free of unsightly print features or errors, as well as the ability to weld separate 3D printed parts into a single and durable part. Now, a small start-up in France has announced that theyve created a 3D printing welder that theyre claiming can weld different types of plastic filament together.

The company, I3D Innovation, was founded by a father and son who, with their combined backgrounds in milling, industrial computing and computer engineering, realized that they were lacking necessary 3D printing tools that were adapted for their needs. The companys tool, the EasyWelder, aims to connect multiple pieces of filament together which can then be used as a piece of filament for creating a new 3d print rather than discarding filament that may not be enough for producing a desired 3D print.

3D printers use a raw material plastic filament of about 360 m long, coiled, said the father and son team on theirKickstarter page.

With a coil, we can make some items. But when there remain only a few meters, it is often impossible to use it. This filament is then unusable or discarded. Considering the price, its infuriating.

In total, the EasyWelder aims to reduce filament waste, combine different color or filament materials for custom projects, help print large parts and ultimately, help 3D printer users save money.

The tools gripper is equipped with two heating tips while the heating temperature is controlled electronically and is adjustable from 100 C to 200 C. It is capable of welding multiple types of plastic filament in sizes of 1.75mm, 2.85mm or 3mm in diameter. An included Holding Plate Block allows a user to securely grasp the two filaments during the welding process while also ensuring that the filament has both perfect concentricity and is the right diameter for the job.

Perhaps the most impressive feature of the tool though, is its ability to weld multiple types of filament from a variety of different chemical makeups and brands. Among others, these include PLA, PVA, ABS, HIPS, Ninjaflex and other similar filaments, PEG, PE and braided polyethylene.

Currently, I3D Innovation is seeking $6,121 for their campaign with nearly $1,000 raised so far and nearly four weeks left to go in their campaign. Those interested canpurchase an EasyWelder starting at just $50.

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3Ders.org provides the latest news about 3D printing technology and 3D printers. We are now six years old and have around 1.5 million unique visitors per month.

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Anet A2 3D Printer DIY Kit-Multiple Filament Types Large Printing 220220220

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Anet A8 3D Printer Prusa i3 DIY Kit – Multiple Filament Types, Large Printing OB

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The mainboard broke well within the warranty. Had me wait for days for a response from an engineer only to send me the troubleshooting guide with no answers. Horrible communication

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3D Ink

Youll need 3D Ink to use with your Micro. These spools are designed to fit in under The Micro print-bed and work with any spool fed printer. Mix and match as many as youd like for a variety of colorful prints. Each spool contains 250 feet or approximately 1/2 lb (225g) of plastic. You can print dozens of parts with one spool.

3D Ink (PLA) is the perfect material for highly detailed prints and is the goto material for most users. 3D Ink is made from PLA, a bio-degradable plastic which is safe for the environment because it can be made from renewable resources such as corn starch. PLA plastic has a faint honey-like odor (if any) and comes in a wide selection of colors. New and improved formula. Consistent extrusions & better bonding.

Chameleon 3D Ink™ is made from the same high quality materials as standard 3D Ink™, but with some added features! Chameleon 3D Ink changes to a rich white color when exposed to a specific temperature. Chameleon 3D Ink comes in 10 variations between 7 colors and 4 temperature modes.

Tough 3D Ink™ offers unprecedented utility for 3D printing due to its strength and controlled amount of rigidity and flexibility, allowing consumers to print longer-lasting objects fit for everyday tasks and projects. When compared to traditional filaments, which have a fraction of the bond strength and are typically brittle when printed, Tough 3D Ink™ is bonded at full strength.

ABS-R™ is an ABS replacement filament for engineering needs that has increased bonding, lower warp, odorless and doesnt require a heated print bed. ABS-R™ produces rigid objects with a softer feel than PLA, making it a more accessible alternative while still offering the same capabilities of ABS.

M3D, 3D INK & Print Anything are registered trademarks of M3D LLC. 3D Ink is a trademark of M3D LLC.Employees Onlys Headquarters: 11850 West Market Place Suite M; Fulton, MD 20759. Phone:(301)-490-5001

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